What's a good sprayable finish?

[Brandon Stahl]

I've been using System Three's WR-LPU for over a year now and I really love it.  

It's a marine grade water based finish that uses a catalyst to increase it's durability. (In my opinion it's as durable as the 2 part epoxy finish)

I've used just about every type of finish for bows, including the ones listed previously in this thread.  Of all the finishes I've used, I like WR-LPU the best for a satin finish (I prefer 2 part automotive urethane for a high gloss finish).  

There's a little bit of a learning curve getting used to how it sprays since it's water based, but once you get the hang of it, it works excellent for bows.  

It's durable, flexible, dries fast, has a nice satin sheen with no milkiness, and has absolutely no volatile odors.  (you could spray it in your home and your wife wouldn't even know it                  )

It's not cheap to buy, but I've found that you usually get what you pay for.  

This is where I buy mine...

      http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=70&familyName=System+Three+WR-LPU+Linear+Polyurethane+Topcoat+      

It's actually cheaper to buy it from Jamestown than it is directly from System 3.  If you get on Jamestown's mailing list, they send out free shipping offers about once a month.  When I'm about out of finish, I keep an eye on my in-box for their free shipping code and then buy the finish when I can get it with free shipping.  That probably saves an extra $15 or $20.              


When I finish a bow, I seal and fill all wood surfaces with automotive urethane because I like the way it fills and sands.  

After everything is filled and sealed the way I like it, I sand it down with 320 and spray the whole bow with 3 coats of the satin WR-LPU (about 1 to 2 hours between coats).  

I let it dry for 2 to 3 hours and then lightly spot sand any imperfections or little goobers out with 1000 grit, and then put 2 very light mist coats on the bow (10 to 15 minutes between coats).  

The next day it's ready to put in the box and ship out to the customer.


A few things to keep in mind when using it...

-Have very good lighting so you can see exactly how it's going on the bow (it's very easy to spray it too heavy, resulting in runs and sags)

-It's best to use a spray gun with a pressurized cup because it is a thicker than most solvent based finishes (I use a Fuji HVLP turbine sprayer with a pressurized cup)

-Thin it with distilled water (4 parts finish to 1 part water).  Make sure the catalyst is mixed in the water before it's added to the finish.  Use 8 drops of catalyst for every ounce of finish (not including the amount of water you're adding).

-Don't spray it on heavy or it will run and sag.  The water in it doesn't evaporate as fast as a solvent would, so spray on light coats.  It initially has a "orange peel" texture when it's wet, but it will level out as it dries.  This takes some getting used to if you accustomed to spraying solvent based finishes.


Here's one of the end results of spraying the WR-LPU...

       

       

       


I hope this info is helpful to any of you guys who are interested in trying a good quality water based bow finish.  I wish that I would have found this stuff years ago.

[Buemaker]

Good info Brandon and thank you. I'll see If something similar is to be found on this side of the "pond" Bue--.  

[BigJim]

I use the two part epoxie that I sell (also known as TB) It is incredibly tough as most everybody here knows and seals much better than most of the others. yes, it is a little slower to dry, but you can't rush quality.

We also started selling Krystal and it is a "Good Enough" finish that is very easy to use and dry very fast. It is also less expensive. Definately not as durable as the "Buffalo Hide" epoxy, but friendlier fo the user. You can pretty well finish a bow in a day Vs. two to three with epoxie.
Having said that, we still only use the Epoxie. Understand that there is no perfect finish. With everyone you will give up something. Some are tougher but more dificult to use or take longer to complete and others are easier and dry quicker but not nearly as flexible or scratch resistant.
The "Buffalo Hide" works on ALL types of woods even the most oily of exotics.

BigJim

[Sixby]

I have found Marine Spar Varnish to be the best and toughest finish. Also one of the hardest to do as the dry time is long. Like someone said , quality doesn't come cheap. It also will not dry on the oily woods so have to pre seal them with a sealer that will. generally with me that is the much hated(by me) cyanoacrylate. Be sure if you use this stuff that you have pleanty of ventelation.

God bless, Steve

[Dan Bonner]

I have used all of the above other than water based. I am not a patient dude so I have settled on conversion varnish. I am currently using Krystal but have also had great luck with Sherwin Williams CV. Either will allow you to complete a finish job in less than 2 hours if its warm where you are spraying.I use a $14 spray gun from harbor freight. I only sand to 220 grit and don't use a sealer/filler. The stuff is high in solids and levels out well in 3 coats even sanded to only 220. I think if you are patient you can get a more durable finish with other products but I'm not. I also have never sold a bow so if I give one away and the finish chips I don have to worry about my professional reputation.

Bonner

[tawmio]

I know it don't spray on but the easiest finish to work with is Danish oil simple to use just wipe on wipe off don't peel when sanding and just wipe before it dries completely if you want a dull finish.
I have sprayed many cabinet doors myself and many woodworking projects and have always used lacquer but its too hard of a finish that it becomes brittle, so no good for anything that bends, also it has chipped at times when an arrow hit the bow when nocking an arrow.
 I have used min wax polyurethane which is a super tough finish but I'm not fond of the drying time and how hard it is to not get dust to dry in it.
I'm also always looking for a product that has all the PERFECT qualities: easy to spray fast drying able sand flexible and hard while being able to stand up to abuse.
I always get excited when ppl start talking bow finishes hoping that some new great product has come out...... But for now ill stick with Danish oil.

[M.Kerry Bird]

I'm going with sixby on this one. I like the spar varnish too. Here in Utah with zero humidity a coats dry in 4-5 hrs. I like the durability of it and have used it on a lot of exterior wood doors and shutters.

[Mike Mecredy]

Thanks everyone.

[Oak tree]

Originally posted by Bowjunkie:
Yep, Thunderbird cures hard over oily woods with no added precautions needed.

That is a real nice bow.