Author Topic: tru-oil question  (Read 378 times)

Offline rmorris

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tru-oil question
« on: April 11, 2013, 06:20:00 PM »
How many coats do you who use it put on the back and belly of fiberglass limbs?  I assume too many coats will cause horizontal cracking in the finish.
"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Offline Canadabowyer

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Re: tru-oil question
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2013, 06:55:00 PM »
I have used 8-10 coats and never had any cracking of any kind.  Bob
"non illegitimus carborundum est"

Offline rmorris

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Re: tru-oil question
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2013, 07:01:00 PM »
Bob, thanks, also how much prep work do you do to the glass? Do you remove the factory finish, just rough it up or just clean it up with alcohol first?
"Havin' such a good time Oo-de-lally, Oo-de-lally Golly, what a day"

Offline macbow

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Re: tru-oil question
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2013, 08:22:00 PM »
I use a lot of Tru-oil on my wood bows.
If I were doing the glass bows I'd use Tru-oil on the wood surfaces on the riser then do the limbs and the riser with some spray poly etc. I just don't feel the Tru-oil will be very scratch resistant in the glass.
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Offline Canadabowyer

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Re: tru-oil question
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2013, 10:09:00 PM »
I sand the wood and glass to 220. You want to remove all the shiny part of the glass, it is a release agent used in the manufacturing process and no finish will stick to it very well.Mack is right, its not a tough finish but I have bows over 10 years old and have had no problems with dings or scratches.Also if you did ding it, its very easy to do a refinish. Thats not so easy with an epoxy finish.Apply the thinnest coat you can and let it dry completely. I put it in my bow oven at 100 f.for a couple hours.Then smooth with #000 steel wool. After about 4 coats switch to #0000 steel wool.If you want a non shiny finish, rub it out with #0000 steel wool till you like it and then wax it with good paste wax. Bob
"non illegitimus carborundum est"

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