Built my BBI form..didn't work

[vanillabear?]

[Roy from Pa]

Who in the world would use IPE, when there's Osage out there?

[Zradix]

This guy is using Ipe this time around.

So Ipe and heat don't play well together?

[Echatham]

Zradix, just so you know, I had alot of crazy ideas going into building that bow.... and Roy shot most of them down.         but i followed every bit of his advice, even when i had doubts, and i can promise you that bow wouldnt have came out so well if i didn't

[Zradix]

I hear ya Eric.

I am trying to follow the great advice I'm getting here from you and others.

I think I just misunderstood a few instructions.

I am so very appreciative of all the help I'm getting.
I don't get this much help from family...lol

[Zradix]

Well I split the distance from the edge of my power lam to the tips and put the pad there.

I believe that is what I have been advised to do.

The tips look a little steep to me..but I've never done this before.

Course clamping a this piece of pine is nothing like clamping a 3/8" pc of ipe and boo with a bunch of grease all over it...

I'm worried the tips will break if I try to clamp it like this.

Does this setup look right to you guys?
 

[scars]

Your form looks fine, the dry run will be stiffer than the actual glue up. The glue seems to soften the fiber tension in your boo and wood. If you follow Roys form for flipping the tips you will be fine, the belly of the static tips will be completely supported by the form, minimal stress cracks if any and since they are static super glue will work. Ipe when heated to the right temp makes the back of the tips shine like a gloss finish and will be hot to the touch. But I would save that for your next bow since I get the impression you want to hunt with this one soon LOL

[Roy from Pa]

I've never used IPE, the first and only time I was exposed to it was when a buddy came over to my shop and was rasping and sanding on IPE. I got a severe reaction from it. So I had no idea that IPE doesn't like heat treated, sorry bout that.

Your form there is fine, but the reason it's showing so much reflex at the tips is because you have the tips out past the outer edge of the end post. The more you move those end posts in towards the riser, the higher it's going to push up those tips. OR now that I think about it, it's because your mid limb posts are way shorter than mine and causing more reflex. I would take about an inch off your end posts.

Note my end posts below.

   

[Roy from Pa]

[scars]

Darn,
Guess I did not get the memo  :D
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This ipe was heat gun bent using a form on the back of the slat.

[macbow]

I wouldn't mind hearing a little more on bending the IPE.
Just dry heat and a caul?

I use a shorter handle/ riser than Roy and I use a power lam.
My handle is usually more like 8 inches.
From center of bow I put my blocks at 16 inches for bows 64 to 66 inches.

[Zradix]

Sorry it's taken me so long to reply guys.
Between the flu and my Son B-day party I've been pretty busy.

Roy..
My blocks are all shorter than yours...but they have the same difference between them within 1/4" So the overall "bends" should be about identical.
I understand what you're saying about the tip overhanging a bit.
I thought I should leave a little hanging out so I could put a clamp right on the tip.
I see in your vid you don't have anything clamping the last inch or so.

How long is that bow in the vid?
I was thinking that if yours is longer, that might be why mine looks to have more curves in it too...ie same bend height over shorter distance.

I may very well move the tip posts out a tad.

I really appreciate all the help guys.
I think I'll play around with the tip flipping with the piece of ipe I'll be trimming off the slat before I try it on the good pc.
That part has me pretty worried.
Might not be bad at all once I just DO IT.

I'm thinking of a 9" handle section with a 12" power lam.
then keeping the 1.25" width for 2-3" after the tip of the PL.

Thanks again Sages.

[Roy from Pa]

The bow is 66 tip to tip. I cut the last 2.5 inches of boo off at an angle to put on horn tip over lays so it's clamped to with in an inch of the end which is good.

By you having the tip out past the end post, your making the post act like 6 inch posts at least.

[Zradix]

yep.
I hear what your saying Roy.

I'll have to move the tips posts out a bit.
I plan on doing the horn tips as well.

[Roy from Pa]

Cool

 

 

 

 

 

[Zradix]

thats about how I was thinking of doing it Roy.

What type of glue should I use?
I'll be gluing buff horn to ipe and boo.

It looks like you leave about 1/8" of belly at the tip.

And you said above you cut 2.5"
So it sounds like I should make a mark 2.5" from the tip on the back. Then make a mark 1/8" up from the belly tip..and sand away.

I did move my tip posts out about 1.25".
Now there is only about .25" of tip unsuported.

I tried to clamp a piece of 3/8" thick pine in the jig...lol
sssnnnaaaaapppp..lol
Didn't help aleive my worries of whether or not the ipe can bend that much..

[Roy from Pa]

I use smooth on for tip over lays. Pine will snap. Your right on how to measure it.

[alteredbeast]

If ya don't mind me askin what type of glue do you guys use for the wood i'll be makin a hickory/oak bow and was planning on using tightbond 3

[Zradix]

hi beast.

I'm new at this but from what I've read T3 is good for perfect mating surfaces as it doesn't have gap filling properties. And you want the surfaces smooth.

I'll be using uinbond 800 for my BBI. With this glue you want to rough up the surfaces a bit. Many drag a hacksaw blade over the surface to do that.

[Zradix]

Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
I use smooth on for tip over lays. Pine will snap. Your right on how to measure it.

smoothon...nuts..lol Don't have any of that.

Would regular 2 part epoxy, uni bond, or superglue gel suffice?

Thanks