hickory self bow first timer

[nate potate]

first timer here. ive just recently cut a hickory tree down and decided to make some bows. easier said than done. i am wondering how long and under what conditions i need to dry or cure the wood.  i really am ready for this project, and was hoping to start on one soon so dont hesitate to offer suggestions

[J. Holden]

Welcome Nate,

I can't answer directly in regards to hickory.  I was told though osage needs 1 year for every inch thick.  If hickory is the same it's probably gonna be awhile.  Don't eman to be Debbie Downer but if you work green wood it's more prone to taking set.  Hopefully someone with more knowledge will come along with a more deffinate answer.

-Jeremy  

[Pat B]

How big(diameter)m is the hickory tree?  If 4" split it, peel the bark and seal the ends and back with shellac(or wood glue). If bigger, split into staves and do the same as above.
You can take a stave or 2 down to near bow dimensions and it will dry quicker. Normally you would wait at least a year before building a bow.

[John Scifres]

I have speed dried hickory and made a bow in a couple months.  Take it down to near bow dimensions but leave it wide all the way to the tips.  Make sure to get the thickness less than 5/8" all the way across the limbs.  Let it rest in a cool, moist place (like a basement) for a week and then bring it into progressively warmer areas for a month or so.  After that, you can leave it out in the sunshine for a couple weeks and then start tillering.

[LittleBen]

I second what John said. I've gone from innocent tree to deer sursuing bow in a few months by doing basicallyu what he said. But in NY there is no sun so I used a drying box (lightbulb inside pine box).

[nate potate]

thanks for all the input,
 pat b, i took a 4.5" tree 2 days ago, and split it into 4 staves. i have them in a cool dark place but they've started to bend outward.... i dont know if thats a bad thing or not ? and because i am really eager to start taking them down i may try john and littlbens ideas too ! ill let you guys know how it goes
thanks again

[Pat B]

Bind the 4 hsplits back together with spacers between them. This will let each stave help keep the others streight as they dry. I've done this with 1/2 splits with success but I haven't tried 4.

[John Scifres]

If your tree had any lean to it, choose the staves from the top of the lean and the bottom of the lean as your favorites.  They will show less warp as they dry.

After you get one of the staves down to near bow dimensions, you can clamp it to a 2X6 that you have cut a gentle reflex shape into.  I clamp it then wrap it several times with packing tape at the tips and handle to hold it down.  That way my clamps aren't out of commission for a month.

Do like Pat says with the rest.  Or take them down one at a time while you are waiting.  

Removing all the extra wood from a stave is the quickest and safest way to dry them.  The trick is knowing what is the "extra wood".  The ideal would be to get the bow completely cut out and into its final shape before drying.  But we never know its final shape so we do the best we can.  Wood checks and warps because of uneven drying.  The less interior wood we have, the less uneven drying, the less warping and checking we have.

Have fun.  Take pics.  Post them.  It's a rule here.  At least I think it is  

[ALW]

I second, or third what John said. Make sure you reseal the ends if you trim the length and don't forget to seal the fade area. If you reduce the stave you will have cut across the grain at the fades on the belly and it will loose moisture quicker there and can check. Seal with shellac or wood glue.  

Oh yea, don't forget to cut more wood!  Always good to have a nice stash of wood drying so you'll have good seasoned staves to work on.

Aaron

[Draffish]

Quick question guys if Nate had not split his log been 4 inch thick could it have been left to dry naturally before splitting and would this prevent twisting etc  

[Pat B]

I have had whole logs check as they dried. I will let then rest for a month but prefer to split at least once to begin getting the moisture out to start the drying process. Binding the 2 halves back together with spacers between prevents the twisting.