gonna build first bow and got some ?

[citori]

I am gonna build two bows using the bingham takedown LB plans one for my wife and one for me. I have spent DAYS and DAYS using the search feature here on the gang, but still have some questions.
1. Can I bend 1/4" phenolic to make lines in the riser?
2. Would a clear glass limb bow be reasonable for the first bow?
3. How hard is it to get the limb glass overlays to come out clear?
4.  How thin/small can you go on the riser and it still hold up? (thinking one curley maple and one walnut)

I have access to a VAST array of shop tools and am an artistic and VERY maticlious(sp)person......if that makes a difference. Any thoughts and ideas would be great before is order the kits.

thanks
citori

[Willow]

I have limited experience but I would say go for the clear limbs. Just make sure you get even pressure so the glue bonds the wood and fiberglass, thus making it clear. If you dont get good contact, you will not see the wood well.

Hope that helps.

[razorsharptokill]

1/4 ' phenolic will bend a little I think but I'd go for a straight accent for 1st bow/s

You want even pressure on the glue up not just for looks but for strength too. Follow the directions. Watch the vid a few times.

Use the blueprints to get basic shape, then trim down till it fits your/her hand.

DO NOT over bow yourselves. Use this as learning experience and build a bow that is pleasent to shoot.

Bottom line.. follow the directions and take your time. Read the directions a few times before each step. Have fun!

[kennym]

Bending 1/4" phenolic depends on the radius of the bend,I think you could make a bend like this riser for a Binghams TD LB,be sure to rough the phenolic up real good!
 

Never done clear glass overlays,but shouldn't be any harder than a limb if you take your time clamping.

IMO,you can go smaller than the Bingham plan without any trouble,it will depend on the individual piece of wood. If you can get a lam strip thru the grip,it helps a lot!

[R.W.]

Though I have not tried this, it would seem that if one put his phenolic in HOT water for a few minutes then pressed it, it should form to most mild bends/curves.
Some one with more experience may have a yea, or nay to this procedure.

[ethan]

R.W., I wouldn't go with the water idea.  But like Kenny said, alot of it depends on your radius.  If you could think the phenolic down a bit I think it would be easier to work and in my opinion, less is more and usually looks a little cleaner/better. Use  alot of clamp pressure and try to do it as evenly as possible.  It's not as hard as you think and between the clamp pressure and the heat when you cook the handle, you'd be surprised how evenly materials will give and take form.  In fact the first few handles I did with a radius I built fixtures to sand them perfectly.  Now, I just make a cut on my bandsaw (very carefull!) and touch them up on a drum sander then glue them up.  Good luck.

Ethan

[Bodork]

I don't know how flexible 1/4" phenolic is but If it's very stiff, I wouldn't try to force it to bend.
 On this riser the bloodwood accent is about 3/8". I started with a straight piece with the intention of bending it but it took alot of force to make it conform to the curve. I ended up cutting a curved piece. You can barely even tell the stripe is curved. It just follows the back of the riser.
 
 My point is, I don't recommend 'forcing' things together. There will always be an equal force trying to pull itself apart. This could potentially shorten the life of the riser.
 If you're going to use clear glass, I'd definatley use the air hose method.
 If you're artsy and meticulos, you will find this very rewarding. Good luck and I hope you show pictures along the way.
   Mike

[elk ninja]

If you want a 1/4" phenolic, I'd get four strips of phenolic and rough them up and apply them to the glue up one at a time.  In other words, don't glue them into a 1/4" strip and then do the glue up, but rather slather on the smooth on piece by piece as you build your riser during one glue up session.  Clear as mud?
Mike

[citori]

I plan on making 40# bows for this project.  I have owned a 49# and 43# bow so far....now I am going to make this one 40#@28"....but my draw is 30".

I am an art teacher and and love to do this type of thing, so this should be right up my alley.

The shop students are making the bingham takedown recurves as we speak.  I have been watching them every step of the way and doing a TON of research on here and anywhere on the net I can find info.

I am planning on making a pair of bows.  Both of them takedown LB mine will be the 68" one and then one for my wife I would like to make @ 60" if it is possible with the plans.  Both of them will be 40# at 28".  She draws 25-26" so hers will be in the low 30# range.  I am wanting to make them with a chunk of hourglass shaped wood in the center and 2 contrasting chunks of wood on the outside of the center.  I will also add two strips of fiberglass on each side of the center shape.  The use the same colors on the limb tips also.

I was also wondering if these bows will take fastflight or do you have to use dacron strings?  I Plan on making two extra layers of glass on the tips along with a layer of matching wood on top of that.

Does this change your opinion of what I should do?

thanks
citori