New to bow making.

[0dysseus]

Hello everyone. I just got in to making bows and after many hours of research got the nerve to start building my first one. After searching for a half hour at my local lowes I found a lovely white oak board with good straight grain and chose to go with it. The dimensions I have set for it are as follows: 66 long, 2 wide and 9/16 thick as a start point. I know I'm probably beating a dead horse but I just wanna ask for some pointers. Are there any tips or particular things I need to focus on more than others (other than tillering). Thanks everyone!    

[Black Mockingbird]

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!.....DONT DO IT!!!!!

[0dysseus]

Is it an inferior wood? Keep in mind this is more of a 10 dollar hands on learning experiment rather than a going hunting for grizzly bow lol if it breaks that's cool. I'm primarily learning the basics of crafting rather than entrusting my life to it haha I'm not that confident in my work yet.

[Black Mockingbird]

I'm just joking....for some bow making is a crazed obsession that can take over your whole life...some folks eat,sleep,dream,n think of bows 24/7 365 days a year after year....what your starting out at with is fine(wood n dimensions)....just take it slow n easy thru the tillering process...fight the urge to rush..its almost impossible but do try....never pull past your intended weight...never pull any further than a problem area in your tiller until it is fixed regardless of how much weight your pulling

[0dysseus]

Haha ya can't be doin that to me, I was thinking crap won't even be able to shoot it without risking a bloody nose lol I completely understand I've been reading all the information I could find and stalking YouTube for any knowledge available. Figured it was time to go to the professionals for advice. Thanks brother, I've gotta rig up a t stick today. Glued the riser on yesterday been anxiously waiting for it to dry. I'm a perfectionist so I should be able to fight the urge. Hopefully at least.  

[LESKEN2011]

White oak is a good wood to start with, for sure!

[John Scifres]

Accurate layout, judicious wood removal (read that as slow and steady), and gentle tillering.  Don't use a tillering stick.  Use a pulley setup.

 

Don't hold a wooden bow at draw for any longer than necessary.

Here's how I tiller:   http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/fromblanktobow.htm

[Echatham]

Originally posted by Black Mockingbird:
....for some bow making is a crazed obsession that can take over your whole life...some folks eat,sleep,dream,n think of bows 24/7 365 days a year after year....

Who me?    

[0dysseus]

I didn't even think of a pulley system, that will simplify the process a lot.
John, in the guide you linked was the right limb of patience a little bit longer than the left. It seemed like it was to me but it may be from where I'm using my phone to view it. I only ask because I thought about doing this so when I get ready to shoot the arrow is sitting dead center of the bow. To me it seems like it would provide more momentum because it is the true center thus receiving all the spring from both limbs.

[red hill]

I would suggest a cheap luggage scale from Wally World.  It will help you hit your desired draw weight and isn't very expensive.  Also make a tillering "gizmo" . You'll find the instructions in the how-tos.
Good luck and have fun!t  

[John Scifres]

Depends on where you start your measuring.  This gets into a little more philosophy of bow building than you need right now but I argue that the limb starts at the fulcrum.  The fulcrum is the center of the bow so the limbs are equal lengths by default.  

Other seem to argue that the limb starts at the fade.  This separates the handle from the limbs, at least in thought.  In essence, it seems that there is a top limb, a handle, and a bottom limb.

I prefer to think of it as a whole so separating a bow into its parts, even into upper and lower limbs, is awkward for me.  That's why I like the fulcrum tillering method.  

For more philosophy, later on read Dean Torges' "Hunting the Osage Bow" and his writings at bowyersedge.com.  

  But, for now, just build a bow.Then build another one, and another until you figure some stuff out for yourself.

Less thinking more working.  Here's a working man's board bow tute:   http://sticknstring.webs.com/ferretsboardbow.htm

[Bowjunkie]

I concur with John about the fulcrum point. I feel the best behaved bows are those tillered so that the dynamic center (point of balance at full draw) coincides with the bow hand fulcrum point. And I too tend to view the bow as having two parts, or spring-levers that begin at the dynamic center and end at the tips..

BUT, I also concur with John that you shouldn't 'fret' over such details too much yet. Instead, make bows, and gradually gain  deeper understanding as you gain experience.

[0dysseus]

Thanks everyone! Very helpful stuff. I didn't plan on attempting a bow quite that complex yet. Just a few meandering thoughts for the future. Haha in the mean time I will start the now project and focus on the future ones when the time arrives. I'm the kind of guy that has to read the manual while doing it in order to learn correctly. now, that being said all the links to guides and building the basic tools are greatly appreciated and I can assure you I will put them to good use. When I get my camera up and running again ill post some pics as I progress with the project.

[Steve Kendrot]

You've seen this thread I hope?

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000122

Have fun!

[0dysseus]

Yeah, I think that was one of the first I read when I was trying to find a good example of what to look for (board wise). Had to do some cleaning around the house so I haven't been able to work on my build since I last posted. Gonna get in the workshop a lol later today and get some work accomplished though...good news is I got my camera fixed so as soon as I get it looking like a bow ill be able to post pics.

[George Tsoukalas]

For your first I recommend no add on handles and no narrowed handles. Let the handle bend. You can cut the measurement to 1 3/8 in for 45-50#.

[George Tsoukalas]

Here are some pointers.
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/boardbowbuildalong.html

[0dysseus]

Well, gonna start the real work tomorrow. Been down with a nasty virus for a week. Now that I'm back in business it should only be a few days before I get her ready for arrows. I have one question. For string silencers I know beaver works well. I don't have any on hand but I do have a rabbit fur. Will it work as well?

[LESKEN2011]

Rabbit works well. It is not waterproof like beaver, but is a good substitute. I pretty much use it on all my bows.

[0dysseus]

Good deal. Thanks. I'm now trying to decide on a backing. Lol so many decisions. I'm torn between goin cheap with paper backing or if I wanna go with sinew. My only concern is from where it is a board idk how the sinew backing would work as far as tension on back and compression on belly. Last question. When backing a bow do you tiller before then apply backing and check tiller after or back it and then tiller it?