1st BBO...The building of Halcyon

[Zradix]

OH BUT I'M A BIG DORFY GUY ROY!    

I am curious what difference will be felt after I do.
Don't get me wrong guys.
It's not that bad..I've had bows that were worse...lol

[Roy from Pa]

Hand shock can be caused by heavy limb tips, not just the horn over lays. Or can be caused by limb timing not being in sync. Does the bow feel like one limb or the other is fighting you when you draw it, like trying to tip in your hand?

Put a B-50 string on her and see what happens after ya thin down the tips.. And what brace height do you have it set at? Maybe try raising or lowering the brace height a tad. I set my BBO's about 6.25 to 6.5.

[Zradix]

I didn't scrape much on the tips at all durring tillering.
I believed it was recommended to keep them stiff for 5-6".

But there is definitely fat to be trimmed.

She's a long way from finished gents.

Right now I've been bracing around 6.5".
Haven't really tried tuning yet much at all as nothing is finished yet.

It'll get there.

I'm a happy dude that I have a bow that shoots!
Not slow either..
OOOOHHHH that reminds me..my chrono wouldn't work inside last night..temperamental gizmo it is.

I'm going to have to see what is says while it's still light out.

I'm not a big speed guy..but it's fun to find out what ya got..lol

It'll be interesting to see what differences can be measured once the string is changed to a "real" string and the tips are lightened etc.

Not that the game will notice a bit of difference..just for curiosity sake.

...why is it that I always feel I HAVE too apologize for using a chrono?..lol

[Roy from Pa]

I'll guess 165:) You will be amazed how thin you can get those tips and they will still be straight. How wide are they, John?

[Bowjunkie]

Heavy tips, if they are a factor, likely aren't the root cause... slightly heavy tips won't cause handshock if they return simultaneously, but they WILL exaggerate the recoil felt due to unsyncronized limbs. I would check limb timing.

How do you shoot? Split finger or three under? Are the limbs of your bow the same length or is the bottom limb shorter? Where is your nock point set?

Timing issues, handshock, and imperfect arrow flight due to unharmonized limbs are why I don't care for tillering bows to predetermined brace height measurements while pulling the string from the center of the handle. It's a guess, often not the best for the bow, arrow, and archer, and then we either try to mask the effects by changing nock point height, brace height, etc, or learn to live with it. In my opinion, bows should be drawn on the tree just as they will be by hand, with limbs being timed as closely as possible.

The easiest way to tell if there is a timing issue is to shoot it from higher and lower nock points and see if you notice improvement in arrow flight and handshock.

[Zradix]

Roy,

Right now the tips are big blocks.
They are darn near square at the tips.
1/2" wide x 1/2" thick.

I have definite plans to slender them up..a lot.

Didn't get a chance to chrono tonight..

[Zradix]

Bowjunkie,

The limbs are the same length.
I shoot split.

I took your advice to heart and put the bow back on the tree.
This time I marked the string where my hand will be when pulling back.

My string "claw" is very close to the width of my 3 fingers.
I placed the claw where my fingers will be and pulled her back on the tree.

I saw that when doing this I had one limb tip bending/traveling about 1/2" farther than the other.

With a few trips back and forth from the tree to the scraping bench I got the limbs seemingly better evened out.

[Zradix]

..however just as I was expecting this to be my last trip to the tree...
I was working the bow on the tree 40-50 times after scraping like normal..and I heard a tick..

sure enough my first splinter..if one could call it that.
It started about 3/16" under a node on the outside of the limb.

Really a surprise as I haven't done a thing to the back of the bow...it still has the skin and all.

anyway..it's pretty big.
About 1/4" wide and 1.5" long.
Just split right in the middle of the boo layer...it's still glued to the osage.

so now it's sitting with clamps and superglue.

...what a bummer.
I've heard super glue works wonders on these splinters..we'll see.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I would be careful and wrap the area with the splinter in something like silk thread and then soak it with thin CA glue. you could do the same exact thing on the other limb and it would look like you were planning on it. Just a thought for ya

[Zradix]

does it really need to be wrapped?

Super glue is pretty strong stuff.

[Bowjunkie]

That sucks about the splinter. It happens. I've had success gluing them down without wrapping them.

I don't know that equal limb travel will always mean syncronized limbs. They're equal length, but you're not pulling from the center of the string. I make my bows with different length limbs, so I don't use the tip travel as an indicator for harmony at all. I have a vertical line on the wall that indicates where the fulcrum point of my string hand is, and will follow/travel perpendicular to the bow, when limbs are timed. The 'hook', if placed where your fingerd go on the string, and you pull straight down, will veer away from the line if they're not syncronized, pulling toward the stronger limb. If you want your limbs perfectly timed, weaken the stronger limb until the hook tows the line. This is done with the handle set in the tree so that it won't roll to one side or the other.

You can also set your tree up so that the handle can rock back and forth, and it will lean toward the stronger limb. I have my tree set up so I can do it either way.

If I want the bottom limb just a hair stronger because it's shorter and more highly stressed, I allow the hook to come toward the bottom limb just a tad.

[Zradix]

great info man.

..cut and pasted into my notes.

Thanks
   

[Roy from Pa]

That sucks, John. Has happened to me a few times also.

[Zradix]

Yeah..
guess it happens to the best of us.

have over 150 shots on the repair now...seems ok..      ..lol

after I reached that point I decided to start working on the tips, getting the fades blended in etc.

Tired of shooting a roughed in bow...lol

[Roy from Pa]

Good deal, did you wrap it or just super glue?

[Zradix]

just glue.

It didn't want to press into place unless it was braced.

so I braced it, pried it open slightly with my knife.
Filled it with thin ca glue.
wrapped it with plastic
clamped with 2 squeeze clamps.

then decided to unbrace, so the boo would line up/ squeeze in  tighter.

left it clamped a couple hrs.
took off the clamps

sanded off the excess ca glue.
then just for kicks ran another bead of glue down the seam.
then fine sanded the glue down.

curious how well it'll stain now...?
I know stain doesn't work on the glue..guess I'll see how well it penetrated...lol

[Roy from Pa]

That can be it's beauty mark:)

I can't let you have all the fun, I glued up a tri lam last night.

 

 

[Zradix]

cool!

What woods are you using?
some of it looks kinda dark.

[Zradix]

Roy..
What is the advantage of a tri lam anyway?
Another glue line to hold the shape and the possibility of a lighter core is all I can come up with...other than looks..

[Zradix]

I haven't read about this combo..but I'll be looking it up soon..

Now I know I'm not ready for this but I was thinking about whether a boo,cedar,osage bow would hold up