Longbow or Fire wood....

[Jeff Fauver]

Newbe question,  I want to make my own long bow.
Here low and behold right under my nose is my daughters friend, Her husbond ( "D" ) made his first long bow from a Hickory stave he ordered.
Well I have a few hickory trees near my house.  
 D and I got talking  over a beer or was it 4 maybe 5....  

So our question are
When is a good time to take the tree? spring, summer, fall, winter?

Do we split out the stave as soon as the tree falls?

Do we pull the bark right off once its split into staves?

Do we need to wax needs of the logges?  or if slip into staves, we we seal the wood as well as the ends to let it dry out the bark?

How long do we let them dry before we start working the wood down?

Where should we let them dry?  inside.. outside, kiln?

I sure this is not the first time is    

Thanks in advance for all or any help...

[Bowjunkie]

I prefer to cut hickory in the late summer. That way the outermost growth ring, which will be the back of the bow as soon as the bark is popped off, is of near full thickness, and the sap is still up, so the bark will pop off with ease. Sometimes if you just wiggle a screwdriver under the bark at the end of the stave, it'll pop off in one big piece. Just be careful not to pry against the staves back where you may damage the bow inside. What kind of hickory are you looking at?

I cut the log in approximately 6' lengths, and either split them right on the spot, or when I get home that same day... the next day at the latest. Hickory, and other 'white woods' deteriorate rapidly if they're not drying.

You can pull the bark off the same day you split them as long as they're not stored in conditions that are too hot or too dry... or with air movement.  

As soon as the log is cut into 6' lengths, seal the ends only, with 2 coats of shellac. You don't want to seal the sides or backs of the staves. You want it to dry evenly from all sides... just not the ends. The ends will check and split.  

If you're in a great big hurry, you can begin working the stave down right away, it will help speed the drying process, but you should leave it 3/4 - 1" thick, and 2" wide for its entire length to allow for layout room and any warping that might occur during drying, also be sure to leave a little extra wood, in thickness (about 2") in the center 12" for the handle, flares, and dips.

Initially, and for at least the first month, allow them to rest in an area that is neither too dry, too hot, or with much air movement. A corner of the basement is good, or a cool, shaded garage.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

[skeaterbait]

Bowjunkie is spot on but I would like to emphasize getting the bark off right away. If you let hickory dry with the bark it's like the bark was epoxy'd on the wood.

[Roy from Pa]

X's 2 what skeater said about getting the bark off right away, green it will pop right off.

[Bowjunkie]

Good point. And another thing I just thought of... don't ever cover them with anything like plastic. I know a guy that did, and every piece was completely ruined. It LOOKED fine, but took enormous set as soon as I began bending it.

[Pat B]

My method is a little different...I prefer to cut white woods in the spring(once the growing season has begun) or early summer. That way the ring under the bark has had all winter to mature, making it more appropriate(IMO) for the work it is about to do, the tension work for the bow.
  When I cut a hickory log I will split it in half, at least and get it under cover and off the ground ASAP. I seal the ends with shellac or carpenters glue. If the tree or half tree is to big to move split it down to managable size first. After a few weeks I will peel the bark off and seal the back with shellac. Some say it is not neessary to seal the back of a whitewood stave but for me a little shellac is worth the time and effort to prevent any checking.
  After a month or so you can reduce a stave to floor tiller stage and and give it a few months to dry or fast dry it in a hot boxor other fast drying method.
 You should not seal the split sides of the stave because that is where the moisture will escape from.

[Jeff Fauver]

Thanks you,
Bowjunkie, I'm no Arborist but it looks like shag bark hickory to me...  I know the squirrels love the nuts in it... I find them with the lawn mower, in my gutters, on my deck....  

So, I will wait to cut them down until late Aug, early Sept. Or as Pat B. says early spring.. (Maybe a good time too, since the tree is in the middle of a 100 foot round think as honey Black Berry patch.)
"D" and  I have the room in our basements for storage.
Well looks like we have some planning to do... in the mean time... Thanks for the help...   I will try to remember to post some pics of the tree to bow stave's and beyond, of my C.R.S. does not kick in... later.. LOL.  

"D' = Dustin we all just call him "D" for a nick name.

[Pat B]

Cut it now if you can. If you wait too long in the fall you will have a hard time getting the bark off. During the growing season(about May into Sept where I live) the bark will slip and is easily removed. During the dormanent season the bark sticks like glue.
  Also, if you cut not the wood can be ready to work by Sept.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

My next selfbow project is going to be with hickory. I've got a tree picked out just special for a selfbow, or lams?

[halfseminole]

This makes me want to drop a few trees in the yard-then I realize I can't split it and I would just be making firewood.  

I wish you all the best on this-I'm still thinking of some way to utilize the bow woods in my yard (I have sycamore, red maple, tree of heaven, Chinese privet, hickory, pecan, and a few types of oak.)  You're going to get me inspired to do something crazy yet I guarantee.