A failures build along

[macbow]

Agree with Roy. The easiest way on a,down hill spiral is to eat into the belly wood at the end of the,riser.
Just had that happen yesterday. Puts you on defense instead of offense.

[Bowjunkie]

I once tried my best to keep ol Roy from digging a hole in the limb at the dips to no avail. I kept writing the word "NO" there in pencil, and every time I'd check on him, my writing had somehow disappeared. She sounded like a shotgun when she blew.

Hey, at least it seems he learned his lesson  

[Roy from Pa]

Ya Bowjunkie, but that's because of all that rot gut Budweiser you was forcing me to drink that day...  

[D]

I agree with Roy and everybody else.  Stay away from that area.  Its easy to get sucked in to shaving there.  Even got to be careful when blending your riser fades with your limbs.  I use spring clamps for my gluing my tips on.  I've never tried rubber bands.  And yes you got to have the right beer...My buddy brought me some that his friend brewed in his kitchen and HOLY CRAP WAS IT GOOD.  Its just great..lol

[Roy from Pa]

Here is how I do the tip over lays.

 

 

And they don't slip at all if ya apply the gum bands correctly:)

 

 

[Razorbak]

yep after my mishap today with then horn slipping..I went and did it exactly the way Roy did with the rubber bands...big improvent, I see now why and how..its near perfect, still minor issue but I think I saved the nocks...now in morning I am trapping the limbs the Roy way...so after that whats next?..I have some pics to put up..I like working with osage...specially scraping and filing..alot more pics to  follow

[Echatham]

Razorback you are one dedicated dude.  to keep going after so many failures.  this is looking like a winner. i will offer up any advice i can... but everything i know i learned from the guys already helping you. so i will probably mostly just offer moral support haha! just read the whole thread.  Roy whats with the secret PMs about "facets".  some of us spectators like to learn too ya know!  

[Roy from Pa]

It's a secret:)

[macbow]

Hey Roy, I have some of the horn like that.
What is the best way to get,it to the dimensions as shown.

[Roy from Pa]

I get the horn from a knife building site, it comes in a block 5" x 2.5" x 7/16th" thick. I just cut 1/2" wide slabs off it on the 2.5" end. Then I lay the slab on it's side and draw a line from corner to opposite corner and cut it on the band saw, then smooth up the cut side on a small 1" belt sander. Takes less than 5 minutes to make a set of over lays.

[Bowjunkie]

I was buying horn blocks like that, and still have some, but recently bought a bunch of water buffalo tips which are actually 5-7" long and solid. I should be able to get at least 3 overlays per piece x 15 pieces = 22 bows for $30? That's a much better deal. I got them on the big auction site.

[Bowjunkie]

You guys that are new to bbo's, or want to learn about tillering and shaping bows with facets should get Dean Torges' dvd and book. It's all covered.

[Razorbak]

ok here is where Im at after my slight mishap with the horn sliding..was able to fix it and here is it after truing everything up
 [/url] [/IMG] Roys method is what Im going to use from now on..here is the nock getting sized and ready
 [/url] [/IMG]
and a bad pic of the shape but otherwise nocks are about done other than a few minor details
 [/url] [/IMG]

[Razorbak]

ok here is the riser getting squared up and pre facet [/url] [/IMG]  [/url] [/IMG] and here it is getting the lines for the facets  [/url] [/IMG]  
 [/url] [/IMG]
I did the whole limbs front and back and use scraper on the boo and file on the wood followed up by scraper and block sand to get rid of the edges per Roy's instruction [/url] [/IMG]
and here it is after the minor surgery
 [/url] [/IMG]
 [/url] [/IMG]
as you can see Im staying away from fades as that's my weakness along with many others

[Razorbak]

I floor tillered it until I got it bending 6" per limb ok here it is on the long string..just pulled taunt I scraped from the middle a little and exercised it some more to get it bending till I got it on a short string [/url] [/IMG]
and here is a badly tilted picture of the bow strung up and from top of block to bottom is 6"..I just pulled it slightly be secure on the post [/url] [/IMG]
please note I did not pull past this at all as I do not want to mess up
another bad pic...top limb Im determining is on left and everytime I put on tree from now on is the top will be always on left..I need to work on my picture taking
 [/url] [/IMG]
and this where Im leaving it for now unstrung of course...amount of time bow strung up is about 1 minute...I am waiting for your advice now guys    

[Echatham]

stay away from those fades and start scraping the outer two thirds.  whats the brace height as shown? whats your goal weight?

[Razorbak]

fades are not being touched...so from mid limbs I need to scrape to the nocks or from maybe 3" from nocks? brace height is about 5" strung...goal weight is about 60# or so Im hoping..its 64" at nocks

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

how wide is the bow? 60 is a pretty high weight I think

[Razorbak]

It is 1.5 at the widest part tapering to 1/2" at nocks and about 1" or so in handle

[Roy from Pa]

Stay 8 inches away from the nocks. Your going to have to exercise the bow down the tree 30 times, pulling it 1 inch more after every 30 times and checking for any places that need attention. Start pulling to about 2 inches below where the string lays at a brace. After pulling the 30 times, pull it down and lock it there. Run the tillering gizmo up the limbs quickly then unlock it. Scrape ONLY where the gizmo marks the limbs. Do about 8 or 10 strokes with a scraper, then exercise 30 times again. After scraping, sand any tiny edges smooth. Keep the sides of the limbs smooth and round, check for that before pulling it again, every time.  Go slow! Think before you scrape. Stand back and look at the side profile of the limb thickness, they should taper evenly. If you see any little depressions, mark them with a NO and don't touch that area. The limbs should have a gradual thickness taper from flares to tips.  As you get farther down the tree, check the weight. You never want to pull it past what your intended  final weight will be. You said you have the Dryad DVD? Watch it again, Art.