Glass bow laminations. Taper VS Parallel

[skeaterbait]

What are the pro's and con's of tapers VS parallel?

I suppose more a more accurate wording, if I build two bows side by side with the same basic dimensions and specs (draw length, weight, etc.), what differences will I see in performance and feel if using tapers on one and parallel on the other?

[LittleBen]

if you use all parallel the limbs will bend almost entirely right near the fades.

if you use tapers the limbs will bend more evenly all the way out to the tips.

If you use the same stack thickness for two bows, one with tapers one with parallels the draw weight of the bow with parallels will be higher because only one part of the limb is bending.

This is just kme personally, but I don't think it makes sense to ever use only parallel laminations. Even on a wide and long pyramid bow, you need some taper. Using tapers is going to create a nice smooth bending of the limbs.

Too little taper = limbs like levers (think mollegabat)
Too much taper = whip tiller (think english longbows with only the outer half of the limbs near the tips really bending)

I think parallels are often used to reduce stacking since a recurve wont unculr as much with a parallel cause the whole outer portion of the limb is stiff.

Go caliper out some nice hoyt F4 limbs ... I bet they've got some taper ... just saying.

[Dan Bonner]

Depends on design. Generally the parallel bow will bend more right off the fades but will have better vertical and lateral stability assuming a similar width profile. The tips on the parallel bow will be heavier, again assuming similar limb width which could make it vibrate more on release.Paralell limbs allow you to use a much narrower limb without sacrificing stability in the same design. I have built my RC md LB in both taper and Paralell and I have settled on .02 taper for the RC and .04 taper on the LB. Length of butt wedges and tip wedges also plays a heavy role in limb design and performance. It would help to know about the design in question. Like LB or RC? If LB straight or hybrid? If RC static or working hook? 1pc or 3pc and desired length.
Bonner

[skeaterbait]

It will be a longbow. Looking to mimic "The Stick" and make it a 2 pc. take down.

I am going to try and get measurements from one but in the mean time was curious about the performance differences in the lams.

Thanks for the feed back.

[kennym]

I like my D/R longbows to bend all the way thru limb, so I use .003 total taper....

 

A straight longbow like I think the stick is, might get by with .002 or if narrow , may need more....( not as much room for taper on edges of limb)

As said above, more taper bends further out, less bends more at fades.

[skeaterbait]

Thanks Kenny.

I know you are north of me a bit but snow? In July?

[kennym]

Looks good,  don't it!!  

[Dan Bonner]

You mean the archer ore the bow Kenny? Cus one looks a whole lot better than the other.... You figure out which.

Bonner

[Dan Bonner]

I just checked out that design. it should be pretty easy to reproduce. its kinda short for a straight LB. I would go with at least .02 taper. It may over stress the fades if you go paralell. If you go with more taper it will probably whip tiller and may stack. You could go .03-.04 if you used some tip wedges to reduce string angle.

Bonner

[skeaterbait]

Thanks Dan and all. Good cache of info here for newbie in the glass world.

It seems to be a whole new way of bow building next to a chunk of tree.

[kennym]

Dan, I wuz talkin bout the snow!!  

Rest of it aint that great!!  :D

[jess stuart]

I have found that generally taper in the limbs will reduce handshock (ligter tips) and be a little faster.  Of course your design might be totally different. With the use of powerlams and tip wedges one can get them to bend to meet what you want.