Thats it, I'm NUTS ----TEST result p 4

[Crooked Stic]

Well if you say you are nuts then maybe you are.
But the bow looks like it will be ok after you chop the tips a bit. What taper you got in it?

[kennym]

Mike , it has .0025 plus a power lam and tip wedge, it is 1.5" wide. Not sure if I'm gonna have enuff stability.

 Maybe shoulda stuck with .002  T....


I wuz out of pink Roy!  :D

[ron w]

Looks pretty good to me....can't wait to see it all finished up!

[BrushWolf]

   

[Trux Turning]

Kenny you should be fine at that taper with the tip wedges- you just need to cut some off the tips. It looks like they are in front of the riser too much and with the 1.5" width stability is a big problem. I make a skinny 60" recurve similar to yours with a .002 taper and a straight taper from fades to the tips.

[LittleBen]

Kenny, take my input with a grain of salt since I haven't built a glass bow, but I have built wood recurves.

I think based on where your string grooves are cut, you should be ok with stability. The string grooves look about 1" in front of the back of the riser. That's shouldn't be too extreme. Might be more finicky to tiller, or you might need a bit more brace height to get the stability up, but might not even be a problem at all.

1.5" wide should be fine, If you haven't tapered the limbs yet I might consider keeping them slightly wider at mid limb than a straight taper to the tips would give you.

I've made two red oak recurves which were only 1.5" wide, and both have the tips about 3" forward of the back of the bow, and have no deflex other than the bit of set that they took. The first one I made basically a straight taper to the tips (pyrimidal) and it was a bear to tiller, had to use heat to align the tips after tillering. The second was full width to 10" from the tips, then tapered to 1/2" nocks. That bow had basically zero stability problems even though is is fairly narrow and highly recurved.

I would consider doing something in between the two of those. Now on most of my bows I make a straight taper from the fades to 1" wide at the tips. Then I make a second taper line starting at 10-12" from the tips and tapering to 3/8-1/4" at the tips. Once I cut the profile out to those lines, I blend the area around mid-limb where the two taper lines meet, so it a nice smooth rounded transition; it almost looks 'oval' when you're done. This way I get a little more mid limb width, and still taper nicely to a narrow tip. Greatly improves stability over a single straight taper, and shouldn't impact speed much because your limb tips remain narrow. I hope that description was clear.

Good luck, and as usual the bow looks great.

[Roy from Pa]

Kenny you are not nuts, your only half nuts..  

[kennym]

The nocks are filed in, the xtra tips are waaay out there tho.

I started taper 10" back from nocks and it looks good braced, haven't seen it at full draw yet.....

[kennym]

Shot it a little tonite, it didn't set my feathers on fire ....

Really, I have no idea how the performance is, its 5# heavier than my D/R

Pretty quiet with the $1 string I got at mojam , actually a rope, 22 strands.....

Nocks wont hardly go on it, but I think 65-70 # woods are gonna work on it.

The bottom limb string tracks off about 3/16 when shot, so I gotta look at the nocks and the limb layout to see if anything jumps out on it.

When that's done, I'll put some grooves in the belly glass to catch the string, when I know it wants to go to center of limb anyway.

Then I start tweaking handle and shelf to suit me.

Its still 50# @ 28"

I'll get a strung pic in a minute and a fulldraw too...

[David Flanrey]

Lookin good to me Kenny.  Sometime the unknown things are alot of fun to figure out.

[kennym]

 

 

Please ignore my fashion statement, I'm tryin for ground hunting, camo bottom, blue sky top...    

 

[kennym]

Full draw looks fair to me, whatcha think?

Better if the tips unrolled a bit more? Or is stiff tips good on a curve? Need some ideas to improve her!!

[D]

I wouldn't have paid any attention to your clothing choice if you wouldn't have said anything about it first.  Good lord is all I've got to say...lol  But the bow looks great.  I don't know much about recurves (or other bows for that matter) but the full draw looks pretty good to me.  I think you have done an awesome job.  As always.

[Dan Bonner]

Kenny, that's a great looking design! A narrow limb one piece RC is the toughest glass bow to build and you nailed it. I don't see anything radicle about the design but I bet it will be 20fps faster with a skinny string. Should be smooth. The  tip wedges keep a good string angle at full draw. You will be amazed how much difference the string grooves make in stability once you file them. How much working limb do you have from fade to tip wedge?

Bonner

[kennym]

Thanks guys!!

Well, it has a special lam I've worked up for my D/Rs  in it.

It started life as a .001 taper, then I added a tip wedge and power lam to it and made a sled to grind em.

It has about .009 taper for the first 12" and last 12" on a 36" lam  .

That made it really thick on the very ends so I paralleled it for about 8" , so I didn't get out past the riser tip.

It works well in my D/Rs from 58 to 64" and the lams for this one are 30" from the center to nock,and I skived about 1/2" to glue the lams up at center so I guess I have about 6 1/2" of tip wedge, you can see that it gets thicker at end of limb.

Do you mean the grooves on the belly the string lands in?

[Dan Bonner]

Yes sir,  the belly grooves. They help a lot. I really like the bow. I have been building all of my prototypes out of action wood lately also. I just hate to risk a good riser block. What did you use for your I beam? Phenolic?

Bonner

[Roy from Pa]

Ya don't know how to make strings, son? LOL

22 strands of what, B-50 no doubt?

[kennym]

Yes Roy, but it was sooo cheap!! $1.00

Dan, that is a 1/4" black sammiched by 2- 1/16" red for the I-beam. Adds some stiffness to the riser.....

[ron w]

   

[kennym]

Thanks Ron, it aint over yet, but I think it will make a shooter!! LOL