Removing glass lam

[bigbob2]

Has any one successfully removed either the back or belly glass on a bow and if so what procedures did you use. I made a light bow for a person and while trapping the back glass with some 40 grit paper it lifted a bog splinter of glass! Put it down to bad luck or maybe some bad work previously with a file, and built a replacement. Would you believe----!!! exactly same thing happened with the second bow and i know a file never went near the edges. Big splinter starting from the edge while trapping with sand paper again and running slightly toward center for about 3''

[JamesV]

If you used smooth-on it will release with a lot of heat. I use a heat gun and a thin putty knife, once you get the glass lifted on the tip keep constant pressure with the putty knife under the glass and heat the glass. Takes lots of heat so go slow and let the heat do the work.

[bigbob2]

Thanks Jame,that's some thing to keep in mind. I'm thinking I might try another angle as I would be worried about the 'boo lams starting to part as well.New question --. If a bow is just about right on desired weight would backing it with imitation snake skin lift the poundage by any noticeable degree?

[jsweka]

Bob - My limited experience with snake skins says, no - it won't lift the poundage any.

[bigbob2]

Thanks John that's the route I'm going to try. Just ordered some Faux skins from 3 rivers. Still cant work out how on earth I got the slivers though!. Just did what I have done on every bow I've made and was rounding / trapping edges initially with 40 grit to bring the weight down a # or 2. Working back toward the center of bow too.Never had any problems at all before but to happen twice running is pretty weird.Must check out the rest of the glass and see if there is any thing happening there

[D]

Bob do I need to go inspect the bow I got from ya in the swap this year?...lol Just kidding its still doing just fine ol buddy.  Thank ya again.

[D]

Bob I forgot to tell ya in my other post.  I have grinded a piece of glass off of a belly before.  It was a slow process but it still worked.  Just tillered it a little before I glued another piece on but that was with a solid hickory core.  Don't ask why I was working on one with a solid hickory core..lol

[bigbob2]

Your most welcome D, it was a pleasure. Hmmm glass and solid hickory eh?  

[MoeM]

When you use a heatgun set it highest level and go very close and short- like sizzling a steak to black and bleedy- you must destroy the glue under the glass without heating the next corelam to much or you`ll get done erh too hot for next gluejoint!
Start at one end and slice a thin blade throug the gap following your heatspots.

[bigbob2]

thanks MoeM but as i mentioned I am going to apply faux snake skin backing which will look good and keep every thing in place. I reckon with my luck I would cause the core to start de laminating if I used the heat gun. The slivers are not the full thickness of the glass and I used CA to glue them back down The backing will cover what is just a bit ugly but not threatening any structural integrity

[T Folts]

I've done it with a heat gun, no problem. I heated the tip and used a razor blade to get it started the just grabed the end and worked a heat gun back and forth and peeled the glass off, easier than I thought it would be.

[Bow-n-Head]

I use the hear gun method, but I use a knife blade under the glass. "Tetter/totter it back & forth.  Go slow.  Ray

[bigbob2]

Thanks T Folts and Bow n Head, you all got me wavering now, so might try it with one at least and see how it works out.

[T Folts]

It was easier than I thought. I cleaned it up and put new veneer and glass on cured it without heat for two days, bow looks and shoots great....

[Bow-n-Head]

Terry;  clean up the old glass and use it toback an osage or hickory slat.  Makes a great kids long bow.

[bigbob2]

that something to keep in mind for myself.thanks. I am going away for couple weeks but when i get back I will try the heat gun method.