First Bow Build.. Bendy Osage Bow Buildalong

[John Scifres]

Probably the satin poly.  You can make poly almost an orange peel by lightly dusting from about 2' but I think the satin looks just fine.

The teak oil is not shiny at all though.  I'll try to get pic tonight to show a comparison.

[John Scifres]

It's not the easiest to see but the darker bow is satin polyurethane.  The other is teak oil.  I'd judge the shine to be similar but the teak oil is a bit shinier.

   

[John Scifres]

Tip before shaping with future outline drawn on.
 

     

After shaping.

   
   

 

[John Scifres]

A floppy rest taped on for bow tuning.

 

[John Scifres]

Gluing on a wedge arrow rest.

 
   
   
   
     
   
   

[John Scifres]

About this time you are trying to figure out a way to cuss me out on tradgang with both your hands glued to your bow  

     
   
   
   
   

You can file it down again and then recoat with superglue.

[John Scifres]

Be very careful not to get into the wood when shaping the rest.

[jeremy1517]

Which rest would work best with my handle. I think you mentioned I shouldn't do more than rounding the edges. I see you have your leather Wedge rest on a bow where the handle is narrow. Will that work on mine?

By the way, the Osage is Beautiful!!

[John Scifres]

Either one will work.

[jeremy1517]

I like the wedge rest. Now a big question. My handle size fits my hand perfectly. Is there a process for determining where to put the rest? At the top of the grip, etc?

[John Scifres]

That's where tuning comes in and the temporary floppy I had on that bow.  Shoot the bow with different rest placement and find where it shoots most quietly and the draw and release are comfortable.  When you find that, put a temporary rest on and then tune the bow.  Adjust brace height and string nock.  Dial it in and then that will help you know where to put the final rest.

[jeremy1517]

John, Can I make my nock's into this shape?

   

[John Scifres]

Not unless you glue on the overlays.  Never cut through the back if you don't have overlays.  And honestly, overlays are too much trouble for me most of the time.  Pretty but I prefer simple.

The general shape would be fine though.  There are really no hard and fast rules and you can get as creative as you want.  That's too long and pointed for my tastes, especially for a hunting bow that is gonna be banging around the bush.

[jeremy1517]

Hey John, still working on the bow. I'm a teacher and have had two nights of meetings/open houses so I haven't had much time.  Will any leather work for the wedge rest?  Also, Is there a benefit to shooting off the rest vs. the hand?

[Bowjunkie]

Good job on the tutorial here, John. Dang nice bows too.

I make my shelves like you do, but glue the pieces together and then hold them in my hand and shape them on my drum sander. A little risky perhaps but works well... and no risk of nicking the finish of the bow.

Jeremy, p.m. me your postal address and I'll send you some thick stout leather... enough for a handful of shelves.

[jeremy1517]

Wow, Thanks !!

[John Scifres]

Any leather will work but thicker means fewer layers.

As long as my arrow is really close to the top of my hand, I can shoot about the same with a rest.  A rest provides a certain launch point which helps especially for those who haven't shot a lot off the hand.  In the end, after a million shots or so, a good shooter will shoot the same from a rest or off their hand.  It really depends on your own desires.

[Bowjunkie]

Yes, the stuff I'll send you is thick and stiff. Thick enough I only use two pieces glued together for my shelf... and then while shaping I even grind almost half of the outer piece away. I use just enough to hold the arrow.

Since the leather is stiff and my grip is rounded on the side, I grind it a little concave on the backside on my drum sander so it lays on there nicely.

[jeremy1517]

John, With the wedge grip, does the top of your hand touch/cover part of the wedge?

[John Scifres]

Yes,