first build need advice on starting limbs

[tbullman]

this is my first bow build I have shot compounds all my life anyway my question is pretty much if you guys think this will turn out ok. I ask because all my info was just from sites like this. Here is all the measurements
the risers are 16" and 14"
I am wanting to end up with a 58" or 60" bow
18 degree limb pad
the limbs are going to be .030 black glass front and back
.120 tapered walnut
8.25" wedge
.080 walnut parallel
any advice will be appreciated

 
 
 

[LittleBen]

Looking pretty good there.

I don't know about the stack thickness or what weifght you're going for but it sounds/looks pretty reasonable.

How did you do that 'window' effect on the ends of the second riser?

Lastly I wouldd be careful about cutting into the sight window at the top on the 'quiver side'. It looks liek you have made a little roudned groove on both, but since the groove overlaps with the sight window it can make a weak spot. Especially in the bottom one it looks like that is the thinnest spot in the sight window area.

It's ok to do all that fancy stuff, but I would just try to do all the grinding above the sight window slightly so it's not a failure point.

[tbullman]

on the 16" im going for something around 50#
I routed out about an 1/8" deep cutout on the ends and shaped another piece to insert on the ends and glued them in
here is a picture of the other side
 

[Trux Turning]

Pretty cool risers- I'm with Ben on the area at the top of the site window but you should be ok. Your stack should get you close to your target weight.

[tbullman]

thanks I just wasn't sure how much the riser angle affects everything because I am going off binghams chart for the thickness
and I just found some patterns online for the limb form im getting ready to cut it tomorrow

[tbullman]

I figure the limb angle affects the amount of reflex and deflex depending on the pattern you use for the limbs but does it do any thing to the weight

[Dan Bonner]

Limb pocket angles will effect weight but not too much.  Maybe a pound or so per degree. They will have more effect on brace height. What do you expect for  finished width at the fades? 1.75" or 1.5" lams? If you sart with 1.75" lams and have a finished width of about  1 5/8" .260 will likely get you in the ball park on the 16" riser and a 60" bow. The 14" riser with same limbs will be 5-7# heavier.

Bonner

[carpin'mark]

Dan & Trux, do you think .030 glass is enough for the .200 total wood, it puts it at almost a 4:1 wood/glass ratio. Hard to tell not knowing what the limb design looks like, if its a little radical, probably will be fine, but it will be a longer working limb.
I tend to use .040 for most mid-weight 'curves and .030 for lighter weight 40# or so, but maybe I'm overglassed. What do you guys think?

[Dan Bonner]

Mark, I've built several 60 inchers with .030 glass in the 50# range. They will have a little more spring -back out of the form but they shoot fine. They are probably a little lighter in mass for the draw weight which should give them a little performance boost. The downside is that they have less lateral stability which is a deal killer for me. I build all my recurves out of .040 glass  now because I like narrow limbs and I need the stability. I use 1.5" lam stock though. If I started with 1.75" it would probably not be a problem.

Bonner

[carpin'mark]

Thanks Dan

[tbullman]

thanks for the info sorry for the delay haven't been able to get on for a while
I've got 1.75 glass and wood im kinda worried about putting my wood lams in the form im hoping they flex enough and don't snap I know the tapers will but I cut the parallels myself and they seem kinda stiff. im getting ready to start my limbs im just kinda guessing on all this stuff besides what ive read on here So it just gonna be trial and error for getting exactly what I want. I have been putting off making the limbs and I made another riser so I have 3 risers and no limbs