Longbow shelf placement question

[cunruhshoot]

I now have two longbow forms my first was Bingham 62" hybrid form and with that form the plans for the riser call for the shelf to be cut in about 2 inches about center. I now have Kenny M's 58" R/D longbow form and he calls for about an inch about center for the shelf. Both the Bingham longbow design and Kenny's uses an 18 inch riser.

Question is...why the different shelf distance from center? And what effect does this have on the bow?

I followed both plans as layed out and both bows shoot perfect.

[MoeM]

Different riser styles will cause different pressure points on the grip- straighter grips will have the palm pushing in the middle while deeper locator and pistol will press in the upper section.
That`s my explanation but I`ve also done it otherwise with nearly no visible effects....

[Dan Bonner]

I like the shelf pretty close to my shooting hand. I don't think it makes that much difference on longer bows but keeping it closer to center on a shorter rig makes sense to me. The more acute string angle has a narrower string nock placement area for good arrow flight.

Bonner

[cunruhshoot]

Well - I did a little research of my own from Jack B. Harrison's book  - Traditional Bowyer, More Unnecessary Fun...

I found on page 166 and following a section on Riser design and location. Long story short Jack has tried a variety of riser placements as related to the shelf and center of the bow riser. He writes... "I have tried positioning the riser higher, by two inches, lower by two inches, and everywhere in between when building different bows. As long as I compensated for the difference in leverage from the top and bottom lims (tiller), it really didn't seem to make much difference in arrow cast. All the bows shot most arrows properly. Arrow spine and physical arrow weight are of even less concern with the bow center one inch below the arrow rest, so this is the riser position I like."

He explains that with the center of the riser, one inch below the arrowrest it allows him to shoot a variety of differently spined arrows out of the same bow with excellent arrow performance.

FYI...

[Mike Most]

This comes in the FWIW column, in Howard Hills book "Hunting the Hard Way" He mentions the arc of the shelf being just under the deepest point in the grip. It further said it allowed the shooter to "shoot where you look" so to speak.

That plus having that shelf pretty close to your shooting hand grip, is a plus for me.  


Good Luck

MM

[Pete W]

I shoot the bows off my knuckle before deciding where the shelf goes. When I find the least shock/buzz/hum/etc that's where the shelf goes.

[Bob Sarrels]

we cut all our shelves at 1.25" above center. always have and it seems to work

[Swissbow]

The riser design of my bows has changed quite a bit over the years but as long as the tiller is right and the limb mass is well balanced they all shoot just fine.
__________
Andy

[tenbrook]

Most instinctive shooters like the shelf as close the the top of the hand as comfortable.

[wandering monk]

"Most instinctive shooters like the shelf as close the the top of the hand as comfortable."

I agree w/ this 100%...longbow grips tend to be a bit longer(taller), but the web of your hand still is pretty much , as far as where it is located as a recurve. directly in line with the throat of the grip. S

Some longbows(especially older styles) dont always have a defined throat...so if that is your case you need to just figure out the best spot for you...

the closer to the top of your hand the shelf is cut...and also a key factor too...the closer the shelf is to the center point of the bow is very helpful for the best arrow flight, and accuracy shooting instinctively.

I have always curved my shelf so the fletching when it makes contact is totally open when it first touches the shelf...and do the same on the other side.

if you can get (for a right hander) the shelf cut to the same height as the top of your pointer finger on your left hand the better the performance shooting off the shelf instinctively.of course with out the finger interfering with fletching etc...

good luck...

[eflanders]

"Most instinctive shooters like the shelf as close the the top of the hand as comfortable."

"I shoot the bows off my knuckle before deciding where the shelf goes. When I find the least shock/buzz/hum/etc. that's where the shelf goes."

I agree with all of the above but I add one more consideration and that is balance.  Personally I like a balanced bow that doesn't tip forward or back after the shot.  So before I put my shelf in, I locate my balance point and use this as my first reference point, then I grip the bow so that my top knuckle is at the balance point and shoot.  I shoot it several times varying the grip to find the most comfortable position, mark it and then place the shelf on the mark.  All of my shelves are made with a radius too.

[chackworth3]

1 3/16 - 1 1/4 above center is where I've  always put mine and it works just fine for my bows

[LittleBen]

Honestly, I stopped measuring ... I just give it about 1-1.25" above the most inset portion of the grip and call it a win. I figure if I think less I can work more.

[Sam Harper]

I always measure mine at 1-1/4" above center and cut it there, but then after radiusing and shaping, it's probably a little lower than that.  I'm not sure by how much.

[kennym]

As you said, I try to end up 1" above center of bow, which is also the center of the deepest part of grip.

Your mileage may vary, but that is my pick!

[cunruhshoot]

Kenny - I went with your layout and I prefer it to the previous layout I was using. It does require that I shape down a little farther into the bottom of the riser but that does not seem to be a problem.