Hickory Backed Hickory

[Japes4]

All, I could use some advice. I did a search on this and didn't see much (though that may be my fault in the searching process). I have a bunch of hickory coming my way...1/8" x 2" and 5/8" x2". Would a hickory backed hickory bow with perry reflex during glue up stage be a decent design?  Looking for #50 at 25". I was thinking 1 1/2" until mid limb and the tapered to 1/2" tips. Was also looking at the bbi build along on Poor Folks Bows site as a template.  Is this feasible, or am I way off?  Also, would TBIII be acceptable when making this bow?

[Bowjunkie]

Perry reflexed hickory backed hickory is a very good way to go.

1 1/2 can get you where you want to be.

I'm not familiar with the bow on the poor folks site you mentioned, but basically, you can use hickory backing to construct bows like folks do by backing them with bamboo.... reflexed, d/r, hybrids, recurves. You have a lot of options. Just adding 3" or so of reflex is a good place to start. I have one like that in the works now myself... hickory backed osage with just a couple inches of reflex.

[Sam Harper]

I would go with 1-3/4 inch or even 2 inches if I were you.  Hickory takes a lot of set, and having it wider and thinner will reduce that.

[Pat B]

A trapizoidal cross section favoring the belly would be a good idea also to help equalize the compression/tension differences in hickory.

[critman]

If you heat the wood and put some reflex in it to start, that will compensate for set. I have used TBIII in several bows, wood to wood, and have not had a problem. Most were around 40# though. Unibond is probably a better choice if available. Watch for limb twist also if the grain is not real straight. This can be fixed with heat also. Good luck and post some pics!

[critman]

Pat B, explain more about the trapizoidal cross section please.

[Japes4]

Thanks for the help all.  With with narrowed backing, how much should I bring this in?  Is 1/8" on each side sufficient?  Also, where would you start trapping the back ( the whole length of the bow or a certain distance on each side of the fades)?  Sorry about all the questions as this is my first bow of this type...only board bows to this point.

[LittleBen]

I also would recommend going wider than 1.5". If your stock is 2" wide, I'd go the full 2" wide.

Also what length are you planning? This is going to affect what width is appropriate.

[Bowjunkie]

2"? Holy crap. Maybe if it was really, really short.

[Black Mockingbird]

With hickory you can get good results by trapping half of whatever your width is...so that would be a 1/4 off the width from each side...so if you made it 1.5" wide,then trap 3/8" off each side....this will help balance the stresses better and not over power your belly so you don't have to make it so overbuilt(and 2" is waaaaaay over built for a hickory backed hickory)for it to take little set,and in turn would be a dog of a bow to a degree...this way it also reduces mass in your limbs resulting in a more efficient sweet shooting upon release in your hand bow...and I'd go 1.5" till mid limb and trap the back with what your wanting to do...and even just as important you need to keep the bow at 6-8% mc cus hickory likes to be dry to perform well,otherwise your bow will take a lil more set if the wood isn't at optimum mc....and tb111 will work fine if you faithfully adhere to its directions...your glue lines and mating surfaces must be perfect...NO GAPS...and don't rough it up...good luck

[Japes4]

Thanks all, I think I have a good plan of attack now.  One more question though...When trapping the back, do I do that the length of the bow or just from the riser fades to tips?