time to get my rear in gear(Done fd pics added)

[bigbob2]

Aint done one myself but sure will be at some stage. Don't think any reason not to be a good idea especially strength wise.

[soy]

Thanks Bob...got the lvl milled down to 1/32 over 1.5" its amazing how much of a pile 3/8" makes in dust lol
 
 
 

[bigbob2]

Glad to see you progressing Thad!Looking forward to the shots to come!

[soy]

OK I have got it cut to length,and I have center marked one question I have is when I shape in for the riser does it make a difference if I put one lam or two+ glass over the riser in relation to how high I need to cut the recess or does it not matter
 
 

[Roy from Pa]

That pile of dust looks like all your other bows..      

[kennym]

I always make a riser pattern and put it on the line where it goes and just make sure I have 1.25" clearance to top form with no lams or glass in the mix. Always works for me.....

[soy]

quote:Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
That pile of dust looks like all your other bows..    

[soy]

Well I got it cut into two pieces, as I stack them together to carry them from the table saw I noticed they wanted to rotate I checked it with a straight edge and it is warped a bit...1/16 " end to center       will this cause an issue is It acceptable or should I go find a different deal to make the form from      


   
 

[bigbob2]

May or may not help if you get a piece of angle iron and drill and screw it to the base, to help pull it strait.

[Trux Turning]

+2 on the angle iron(just the bottom)- otherwise you will build that error into your bow blank...

[kennym]

Yep on the angle!

[soy]

Why just on the bottom dose the top not need to match??? I suppose the air hose will take care of that....hope the riser recession is OK still need to sand a little to get it symmetrical will get some iron for the bottom thanks guys


 

[Trux Turning]

Yea the hose will take care of it- you could do both and eliminate the warp on both- just makes the form heavier

[soy]

Is 1"×1/4" steel adequate for the binding straps on the sides of the form?

 

[bigbob2]

should be Thad, just depends on how resistant the bow is in the beam, but I would certainly think it would be enough.As Trux says the upper form can be done as well but weight factor really comes into it.Don't want to have an engine hoist over the oven just to get the form out      

[soy]

Originally posted by bigbob2:
should be Thad, just depends on how resistant the bow is in the beam, but I would certainly think it would be enough.As Trux says the upper form can be done as well but weight factor really comes into it.Don't want to have an engine hoist over the oven just to get the form out            

 and I had one lined up

[soy]

What a pain in the rear end this is trying to be...got some 1 1/2" angle 1/8" drilled it mounted it one way, and no dice...flipped it around and mounted it to the other side and it is close enough to glue down the mica strip....barely      I hope that the bow build will go smoother than the form build  

   
 
 

[bigbob2]

I had one with a bit of a warp in it and before I mounted angle iron I placed it on couple saw trestles and put a small anvil on it at center line I then applied heat from heat gun and left it overnight before screwing angle on. Sorry I forgot to mention this before.

[soy]

finally I got it in line... one more piece of steel and 3 more bolts now I'm satisfied with it enough to glue on the Formica strip          I may need an engine hoist yet to get In the heat box      


   

[Bowjunkie]

Just for future information, if you ever see an old bed rail laying around, grab it. They're harder and stiffer than standard, more malleable iron, and will do more to straighten your form with less physical weight. A local matress store may allow you to have a used set if their workers haul away the old ones after delivering new.

And if you slightly bevel the bottom edge of the form, you can flip the angle around so it lays along the bottom of the form instead of sticking out to the side.