Test looks fine......again. Time to reduce your stave for a little drying time. I like to get my bow pretty close to working dimensions as possible and store it horizonally for a week or two in conditions that'll produce 6-8% MC for hickory. Temps between 70-80 degrees and humidity 30-40% will achieve that. You can pick up a temp/humidity gauge if you don't have one for about 10.00 bucks or less about anywhere.
So for a bow of 66" ntn and 50#, 1 3/4" width is plenty IMO. Handle width of 3/4" and 1 1/2" deep will work. For handle length, and if you use a full hand grip, 4" centered is fine (2" up from center for arrow pass). For a medium grip make the handle length 5" (1 1/2" up from center for arrow pass).
From there, handle fades, 3" or so. Handle flares (sides), 1 1/2"-2". from the end of the handle fades, parallel the limbs out 1/3 the limb's length. Side taper to tips from there.
So let me explain my reasoning for this particular limb design. First, your stave has a moderate amount of reflex. That requires a certain
amount of paralleled limb to handle the added reflex stress. Second, with the longer side taper, it'll allow you more room to rid yourself of the bug damage.
Most people like to tiller a bow out on the tillering board/tree. I do things a little different and "apply a taper" instead of tillering for it on a tree. So that's what I'm going to explain to you since you're an "old carpenter" too!
OK, you have your limbs shaped, now you need to apply a belly taper to achieve the proper bend. This will more or less be finished dimensions so allow some leeway on the rough-out. So get out your framing square for this.
Right at the handle fades, lay your square on the back of the bow, riding the exact crown of the back, mark 9/16" on the side. Now step your square down to the 1/3 mark and mark the side 1/2" (square on crown of the back). From there, carry the 1/2" mark all the way to the tip. Now mark the other side of the limb the same. Using your pencil, now scribe the sides and join the marks.
If things go your way, little tillering will be needed to achieve the proper bend. Only weight reduction/wood removal out to your draw length is required. But if any extra tillering is required, it'll be at mid-limb where weight drop-off is less, than say inner limb.
So get busy, rough out your bow, dry properly, and it's a piece of cake after that. Good luck........Art
Topic: pecan for a selfbow? (Read 2284 times)
