Wood curing question

[Matt Green]

I live in the country and have several acres of woods. That means access to some trees for bow building. I'm 100% rookie though. I'd like someday to build a bow tha came all from the trees on my and my dad's property. Am talking laminated bow not self bow
1. Can trees which have fallen be used?  Still good wood on the innermost - some hickory some oak. Some cedar (juniper)
2. How should I cut it ? Length? In blocks? For drying I mean
3.how long approx til it has right moisture? Likely a range I'd guess but best/worst case what can I expect?
4. Does it need to go n attic? Or  Basement (with dehumidifier it stays about 50 % in basement)
I'm in no hurry but thought I'd get a head start if the wood will need a long prep time.  Thx in advance
Matt g

[fujimo]

cut it green, seal the ends, cut it into say, 1" thick boards, keep out of direct sunlight, and wind/breeze, sticker it to dry, , ascertain moisture content by either using a cheap moisture meter, or by the weighing method, keep weighing a board( accurately) until it stabilizes and stops losing weight,it is now at equilibrium m.c. then cut and grind for lams, and chase the last bit of moisture out pre layup.

[canopyboy]

Matt,

For bow wood, I think it's preferrable to avoid white woods that have been laying on the ground (unless we're talking just a couple of months.)  Hickory for example starts to decay very quickly if not properly cared for.  You mention the innermost wood still being good, I'm envisioning some decay of the sapwood which means it's been on the ground for awhile.  The solid heartwood makes fine furniture and firewood, but I'd find some standing trees to make bows out of.  That said, I have found some standing but long dead junipers that seem incredibly sound.  Test samples from the wood seem to show it being up to snuff, I've got a couple billets set aside that I'm thinking of using.  I also have some old windblown osage that I think will be ok.  But neither are white woods.

I'd cut your lumber 6" longer than you want and seal the ends.  Even with sealed ends, you may still get some splitting on the ends -- more the closer to the center of the tree.  The greatest amount of moisture comes out in first couple of months.  If this is too fast, splitting and checking is hard to control.  I wouldn't put freshly cut wood in the attic.  Although if you did it now, it would have a winter and spring to start drying  before the summer heat hit.  The basement wouldn't be too bad at 50%.  Normally I just leave it stickered outside with some sort of covering to keep off the rain and sun while letting the air circulate freely.  I've been known to bring it into the house or put in the barn attic after awhile in order to speed up the process if I had a specific project waiting on it.  

Assume about 1 year of seasoning for each inch of thickness as a rule of thumb.  Due to humidity in Alabama, it may take longer outside.  Verify before using as fujimo said.

I think harvesting your own wood is awesome.  Any furniture or bows you make with it will mean a lot.  Plus you'll be able to experiment with woods that you won't find at the hardwood dealer.  Good luck!

[Matt Green]

If I want to build 19 inch risers then what dimensions should I cut the blocks?? X x Y x Z. If I add 6 inches to the 19 I get 25. What about width and depth??  
Thx.
Oh also what do I use to seal the ends??  
Best
To all
Mg

[fujimo]

for small amounts of wood, say riser size- melt some cheap candle wax in a double boiler, and dip the ends in it- it is y far the best, you can paint with a oil based paint, i buy sealing parrafin wax by the 50# block-same as candle wax- just a lower melting point.
can also use good ol' white carpenters glue. just get a good airtight coating.

cut it a bit wider and thicker, for shrinkage- but a good bit longer for the checking. cut  lengths as long as possible- so you dont waste too many 6" extra pieces. then when its dry, buck it to the correct lengths. with the ends sealed, the moisture will be escaping out the sides, so length wont be effecting the drying process.
sticker your pieces for drying, and i like to put a flat ,solid weight on top to help stop warping/twisting- say a large flat piece of scrap steel- that is also stickered between it and the wood- to allow air flow.

i am in the process of building a drying kiln- very simple to build, an insulated box, with a de-humidifier -piped to the outside- to remove moisture.
mine will be quite a bit bigger- room size- but just a frame with some well sealed builders plastic, inside your garage will work very well.
bolt it together, so it can be taken apart, and stored. wrap the plasic around. and seal with tuck tape or such. with the de humidifier on the one end
wood stickered inside, on a plywood base.
seal all the framing wood well, so it doesnt get sucked dry too.

[George Tsoukalas]

Cut a tree at least 6" in diameter. Seal the ends. Split into staves of about 3 inches wide. No point in leaving the bark on. In fact, if you cut the wood in the spring you  can pop the bark right off easily. Now you'll have to draw knife the bark off carefully.

If you rough the stave  out to near bow dimensions and start it bending it will dry faster.

I realize I am using terms you are not familiar with but it would take a book to explain all that.

Do consider Paul Comstock's the Bent Stick. Try 3 Rivers.

Do consider a straight grained while you are waiting for your wood to dry.

Do check my site.

  http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html  

Jawge