2014 Annual Bow Swap

[talkingcabbage]

Wow, lots of progress here.  I need to check in more often.  Lost a week and had 20 pages to thumb through.  

I've got the lams ground and just cut the limb pads on the riser.  Need to order the glass yet, but apparently Kenny is out?  Still don't really have a camera, but I'll try to get some decent ones with my phone when things start taking shape.

[Roy from Pa]

I forgot to show you guys this video. You will notice on the wall below the tree cradle are two vertical lines. The line to the right is for tillering a bow for split finger shooting and the line on the left is for tillering a bow for shooting three fingers under shooting. Those lines are for timing the limbs to bend in harmony / sync, with each other according to how you shoot the bow. I want the tree pull rope to follow either one of those lines exactly down the wall as I pull the bow limbs. If the pull rope drifts to one side or the other, that indicates one limb is stronger than the other as the rope will drift towards the stiff limb. So I will take wood off the limb that the rope drifts towards, to make it weaker. I don't worry about setting a certain + or - tiller to the limbs. I let the bow limbs decide what the tiller will be, so that the limbs bend perfectly together. And you will notice that the bow is just sitting in the cradle, and it is not rocking either way. That tells me that the bow is balanced, just like it will be in your hand when you shoot it....

 

[KellyG]

bob that is an awesome bow for sure. I bet that one gets to travel across and ocean.

[red hill]

Beautiful bow, Bob!

Who's pickin'? None of these cracks are real?

       :p

[fujimo]

Man that's a good idea Roy , I can't see the lines for sure, but makes heaps of sense, do you hook onto the string in a different place. What I have done when I get to a decent brace height, is mark 1/2" higher for nocking point, and then pull where my impolite pointing figure would hook onto the string. Good or bad what do you think?
Do you change your pulley position at the foot of the tree, or move the bow on the cradle.... I think we need to see a detailed tutorial Roy!!!!!

I just love the look of the bows you make they are just so perfect!

[bigbob2]

thanks fellas. Roy do you move the center of the bow across the cradle accordingly to replicate the positions for split and 3 under? It seems the draw is fixed so it would follow the  bow position is moved with either finger position?

[Roy from Pa]

The bow doesn't change positions in the cradle. The arrow rest, "top of handle", is positioned at the right edge of the cradle. The pulley on the floor is on a half inch shaft and I slide it to line up with either the split or three under line, then lock down the pulley so it doesn't move. Split is the right line and three under is the left line. Those lines will represent where the middle finger of the drawing hand will be placed on the bow string when shooting the bow. The cradle is 4 inches wide, the same length as the handle grip area on the bow is. Cell phone pictures are not the greatest.. Plus I'm sure there is Osage dust on the lens..      

     

[KellyG]

Yall are fancy. Can't a guy just scrap and bend Scrap and bend and if lucky scrap and shoot scrap and shoot?    Of course when it comes to bow making I am still in preschool.    

[canopyboy]

Kelly, I've scrapped a lot of bows myself.  But I think once you work your way up from preschool to kindygarten they teach you how to scrapE your bows.  Works better.

 

[Roy from Pa]

   

[Zradix]

Roy,

I plan to use the same basic offset for pulling the string on my next bow....actually I tried it on the last one too but it blew..lol..didn't have anything to do with where I was pulling the string.

anyway, I see you use a skinny hook placed where the middle finger would go. I understand the theory of hooking the string where your hand will be when shooting.

I was thinking of using a wider hook..about the width of 3 fingers, with a mark on it where the arrow would be ( about 1/3 down from the top) and having that mark follow the line on the wall.

Have you tried it that way?
I was thinking it would closer simulate finger pressure on the string.

Any thoughts?

Thank you

[fujimo]

awesome- so one more question, is your arrow nock set so that it is above square- sort of an average measurement?

i thought about that too Zradix, but when i have taken pictures of myself at full draw( amongst other types of pictures of myself  :eek:  ) the string hand still conforms to the string angle- so a solid "drawing hook" might not simulate that- i thought it might be too rigid. but hey you might have a way better idea than i had- try it- prove it... then show us  :D  so we can all copy you!!

[Zradix]

HA! One thing no one here should do is copy me..

Thought about that too...
maybe I wider slightly curved hook...?
...and next a layer of glass...and maybe some wheels...lol

seriously though, my fingers are closer to straight than "V" shaped.
...maybe that's a big problem with my shooting form...lol

I have used a wider hook for tillering before and things seemed to be ok. But I haven't used it on a successful bow that I tried the offset tillering though.

   

[Buemaker]

Good tiller tree Roy and I am sure it helps and the tiller of your bows looks smack on, but I feel it is not possible to imitate real shooting. I would think how you hold the bow, high or low grip also matters. Bue--.

[Roy from Pa]

My tree is set up taking into consideration the arrow nocking point on the string being 3/8th above the top of the handle / arrow rest. John if you look at your draw hand in the picture, the string looks like this <. So the middle finger does a lot of pulling. Bue, yes you are correct,  that's a first ole boy..            I use a medium grip and the bows handle is bulbous, so the handle pretty much rests against my whole hand. However a buddy who taught me this has plates he drops into his cradle to simulate a high, medium or low grip on the bow. This isn't rocket science here, but it's a lot better than pulling the bow from dead center of the handle, a point which no one will ever do when shooting a bow. And the final phase of tillering a bow is shooting it in, seeing how it shoots, seeing how it feels in the hand, and wanting zero hand shock. And adjusting tiller if need be.

[fujimo]

the bow rests against yer hole!!!???
man i gotta see pics of that!!   :D

[LittleBen]

hahahahaha!

[canopyboy]

Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
...handle is balboas, so the handle pretty much rests against my hole hand. However a buddy who taught me this...

Originally posted by fujimo:
the bow rests against yer hole!!!???
man i gotta see pics of that!!     :D  

No Wayne, the "hole" in that statement is an adjective describing which hand is holding the bow.  I think he is saying there is a difference between the hand he wipes with and the one he holds onto the grab bar in the stall with.  Although I would think he would hold the bow with his grab bar hand instead of his hole hand, but that's more thought than I've ever given it before.

   

I'm also curious about the whole balboas thing.

[Roy from Pa]

Wayne, I'm thinking you gots some cabin fever son.. LMAO

[canopyboy]

Wow, Roy was quick to edit that post!  Glad I had it quoted before the opportunity passed, or I'd be wondering what Wayne was smoking.