Author Topic: TB 3 and Ipe?  (Read 386 times)

Offline MacRae

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TB 3 and Ipe?
« on: January 18, 2014, 07:44:00 PM »
I make HBI bows....until now I have always used URAC 185.

What about Titebond?  Esp. if I de-grease the hickory and Ipe very thoroughly before glue up?

Also, which TB to use?
Here I stand...unbowed, unbent, unbroken.

Offline macbow

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Re: TB 3 and Ipe?
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2014, 08:21:00 PM »
I would recommend not degreasing it can make even more oil to be pulled to the surface.

I use unibond 800 now. TB 3 should work but I haven't used it.
With Titebond the surfaces must be smooth and no gaps.
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Online Pat B

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Re: TB 3 and Ipe?
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2014, 08:46:00 PM »
TB glues work fine for ipe/hickory glue-ups. I've done a few over the years. If you have a belt sander sand both surfaces smooth just before glue-up. Just brush off the dust with a brush and add the glue. The "new" wood surface is a good glue surface.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
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Offline LittleBen

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Re: TB 3 and Ipe?
« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2014, 08:31:00 AM »
I'm with Pat on this. I use tb3 for everything using the method he described and the only wood I've had problems with is bocote. I've solved that problem by just not using it.

Offline scars

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Re: TB 3 and Ipe?
« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2014, 01:04:00 AM »
The thing I like about TB3 If cured below 150 degrees you can release the bond, with heat at 150 degrees. If cooked above 150 to 180 it's bond will not release at all. Good to know if you want to test a wood combo.

Offline LittleBen

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Re: TB 3 and Ipe?
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2014, 09:09:00 AM »
Don't forget, it also doesn;t bond to linoleum so fi you dwell in apartments you can glue up in your kitchen.

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