Rasp needed

[Blaino]

I need a corse rasp and was hoping you gentlemen could point me in the right direction.

[Echatham]

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/diamondreg%3B-farrier-rasp-14-in-head

[Roy from Pa]

Exactly....

[Echatham]

Love my nicholson 49... But when i got some serious wood to hog off that thing is awesome.  Has a course side and a courser side

[Blaino]

Tractor Supply..... The only place around town I haven't checked. Thanks.

[Bowjunkie]

I wouldn't be without my farrier's rasp, #49 or #50. They all have their uses. Some bows require the use of the smaller rasps due to curves and such, likey snakey bows, and I always use the #49 for shaping the handles and radiusing the bellies. I don't use the farriers rasp as much as the others, but when I need it, others won't do.

[scrub-buster]

I use a Farriers rasp and a shinto.  I recently picked up 5 new Nicholson USA made farriers rasps for $20 on craigslist.  Already got the extras traded.

   

[Echatham]

Jeff sell me on the 50.  I got 49... And i go from that to a course half round bastard to 80 grit.

[jsweka]

Here's what I like. Two sides - one more coarse than the other. These things will take wood off in a hurry and last a long long time.  One that I have has been in use for >30 years when my Dad use to build muzzleloaders.  I bought a new one a couple years ago and really can't tell the difference between the old one and new one.  The big advantage of this design is that it never clogs up.  I don't use the handle that is shown in the link.

  http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=65692&cat=1,42524

[takefive]

I like the saw rasp, too.  I've used mine on osage, elm, and hickory so far and even the coarse side gives you an even cut without gouging the wood.  The narrowed tip is nice for working the curves on the bow's handle.

[mwosborn]

For shaping the tip and overlay I love the shinto fine side - and the coarse side will take a lot of wood off in a hurry on a relatively flat surface.

For removing wood in a curved area like the fade area I like a half round rasp cut file - pretty cheap at Menards or Lowes.

I also like the stanley surform for working the limbs down to floor tiller.

[Echatham]

i have a stanley surform too, but its been pretty much replaced by the farriers rasp.

[Bowjunkie]

I have a Stanley surform. I hate that thing. I wouldn't give it to a prospective bowyer I cared at all about  

Eric, I use the #49 at least three times as much as the #50, but love the 50 for what it does. It doesn't happen often, but I broke out a new #50 last weekend. My old one was wayyyy past its prime. In 15 seconds, that new one reminded me why it holds steadfast in my lineup of top shelf tools. I was one happy bowyer, let me tell ya.

I 'progress' through tools as I work on a bow. Experience tells us which and when to graduate to as work is accomplished. I do it almost subconsciously... see or feel a need, reach, employ the tool that brings the desired result. The #49, #50, Farrier's, and Cabinet scrapers are ALWAYS within arm's reach of the bench vice or bow horse.

Honestly, if I had to, I could probably get by without the #50, but as I'm using it, I always think... "Yeah... THAT'S what I'm talkin' about". "That's the $#!^ right there!"

I'll be using both the #49 and #50, as well as my freshly sharpened cabinet scraper, throughout the week as I reduce draw weight and tiller the osage selfbow I'm now working on. Just saying so makes me happier than it probably should  

[mwosborn]

Hey bowjunkie - tell us how you really feel about the surform?        

Just shows you how things work for different people.  For me the surform cuts the wood in narrow little curls like a scraper (only much smaller).  The replaceable blades are fairly inexpensive and will last for 2-3 staves pretty easy.  When I use my rasps it tears and rips at the wood.

[Bowjunkie]

Eric, like I said, I use the #49 a lot more than the #50, BUT the 49 cannot replace it. When I'm using the 50, it's because I NEED it. It neatly fills the void between #49 and scraper. Between #49 and paper. Between the smooth side of a Farrier's and paper. It's use is limited, but more than justified. I could, but would NOT want to make bows without it.

[Bowjunkie]

Mitch, what kind of rasps are you using? Mine don't seem to tear and rip. They cut nicely, and very, very little use of a scraper makes the surface glass smooth again.

[mwosborn]

Jeff - I have not used the Nicholson rasps like you are using.  I suspect that can make quite a difference.  Mine are some cheaper ones from the local stores.  Perhaps I will eventually get me a set of Nicholsons.  I know they must work - I have seen your bows.    

[Bowjunkie]

Oh they work alright, though the quality of my bows is based more on luck and utter perseverence than tool selection  

I was spoiled to an extent. I used a cheap dept store rasp, the extra coarse one, and also a 4 in 1, on my first bow... for a PORTION of my first bow, when I got a #50... picked them up once more just to check... uhhh, no, not what I'm lookin' for. I gave em away... and felt guilty when I did  

Call me a rasp snob  

[Echatham]

haha Jeff i did the same thing.  i got a 4 in 1 rasp and i used it once, and never again after i got my 49. same with the surform, never again after i got my farriers rasp. ill get a 50 eventually.  understand the progression thing, and there is a gap between the 49 and scraper/paper.  i kinda use a course file for that but its not great.

[T Callahan]

Totally agree with bowjunnkie on the surform.. the thing is horrible for bow making