Author Topic: Rasp needed  (Read 4888 times)

Offline Brock

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2014, 04:13:00 PM »
I use a #49 but also have a Farriers Rasp for removing a lot of wood fast....
Keep em sharp,

Ron Herman
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Offline Blaino

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #21 on: February 24, 2014, 09:32:00 PM »
I picked up the one from Tractor Supply today. What a difference the right tool makes! Thanks a bunch.
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Offline Fritz

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #22 on: February 25, 2014, 10:59:00 AM »
Can't beat a farriers rasp for hogging wood off.
God is good, all the time!!!

Offline J.F. Miller

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #23 on: February 25, 2014, 02:17:00 PM »
as far as coarse rasp, the #49 Nicholson or UBR-10 are the best as far as I'm concerned. I would add that I use my #50 more than the #49, but both are indispensable when you need them. along with my #50 I've come to appreciate the UBR-10 more and more. the coarse side will hog off wood with more control than I could ever manage with a Farriers rasp, but the fine side is the real gem. cuts a little finer than the #50 Nicholson and serves me as the perfect step between rasp and cabinet scraper or Bowyer's Edge. don't think I have employed my Farriers rasp in building a bow in several years. is good for other stuff, though. like shoeing horses. only use I ever found for a Sureform is for touching up sloppy cuts on sheetrock. does a nice job making those joints that are a little too tight fit just perfect. I've always been curious about the Shinto rasp, but feared it too clumsy for what I might use it for.
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Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #24 on: February 26, 2014, 08:39:00 AM »
I started with a 4 in 1 and a sureform, bought a #50 and retired the 4 in 1 and sureform, bought a #49 and seldom use the #50, bought a horse shoe rasp but seldom use it.

Anyone who can makes a bow with a sureform is is not working with the same type of wood I am. For me they cut OK until they clog, which is just a few strokes, at which point they are pretty much useless.

When I need to really hog off wood I pull the bow limb back wards on my running band saw blade. A word of caution, this is not an activity to undertake if you are not completely focused or you will absentmindedly push your limb into the blade with a mis stroke, been there done that.

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #25 on: February 26, 2014, 01:40:00 PM »
I have the 49 and 50 Nicholson rasps, but since I got 2 Farriers rasp's, I haven't touched the Nicholson's. Personal preference I suppose.

Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #26 on: February 26, 2014, 06:29:00 PM »
Roy, make a snakey osage bow with a radiused belly and you'll kick that Farrier's rasp to the curb in a hurry. The snakier the bow, the more useless a big wide rasp is... but the narrow, hungry little #49 with a halfround side?

You're right, personal preference has some to do with it, but so does application.

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #27 on: February 26, 2014, 06:32:00 PM »
Zactly...

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #28 on: February 26, 2014, 06:55:00 PM »
Did some belly thinning on BBO I was working on today so I got my farriers rasp out to give it one more try. I have to say I liked it for hogging off wood. The #49 was a wimp in comparison.

I would rasp with the farrier's rasp rough side, clean up the gouges with the smooth side and clean up the smooth side tool marks with my Nicholson half round wood file, pretty slick.

Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #29 on: February 26, 2014, 07:12:00 PM »
I love getting lost in that kind of work. Scraping too, chasing rings, etc... Everything outside of what you're doing falls away and for that time, nothing else matters or even exists.

I still use the smooth side to clean things up, but don't bring the rough side of the farriers rasp to my BBO bows much since I've been grinding stuff on the drum sander... they're usually pretty close to what I need.

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #30 on: February 27, 2014, 04:15:00 AM »
I like the Farriers rasp because of it's width and sharpness. I hold it at a longer angle and it makes the facets so flat and smooth in a hurry. I also never use the rough side on my BBO's, no need to.

Offline typical2

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #31 on: March 01, 2014, 09:28:00 PM »
I just bought that farriers rasp from TSC and boy is that thing impressive.  I used the finer side and it does a great job removing material.

Offline Traxx

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #32 on: March 03, 2014, 12:39:00 PM »
if you are impressed by the TSC rasp,wait till you try a Save edge.
Target archery is seeing how far away you can get and still hit the bull's eye. Bowhunting is seeing how close you can get and never miss your mark.

Offline Last Woodbender

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #33 on: April 29, 2018, 05:35:06 AM »
Just got into making self bows and bought a file set at lowes that came with a rasp.  After making a bow with it I realised I need a better rasp lol.  Problem is I want to buy them all.  Just ebayed a #49 and a Shinto can’t wait for them to come in.  Next on my list is a 17” save edge and the Dean Torges ubr10,  what do you guys think about my selection?



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Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #34 on: April 30, 2018, 06:16:01 AM »
It sounds like you're off to a great start.

Offline Zradix

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #35 on: May 02, 2018, 08:39:00 PM »
Well...I'll be the odd man out here...once again.
I don't have a rasp.
I'd like to get some...any kind really just to try em...new tools are cool.

What I do have is a micro plane with a coarse rounded insert and a coarse flat insert.
You kinda have to use the right amount of pressure with it...fairly light touch.
But they sure do shave the wood down in a hurry.

Can't speak much for longevity...just haven't used it much.
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

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Offline OkKeith

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #36 on: May 02, 2018, 08:50:56 PM »
Yup... Farrier's rasp is the way to go. Get a file card and some chalk. In my experience if you leave Osage in the file it will rust quick. Keep it brushed out and chalked  and it will last. When it finally wears out... make a knife out of it.

OkKeith
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Offline Walt Francis

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #37 on: May 03, 2018, 12:31:05 AM »
I use all three, a farriers rasp, a #50, and a #49, whenever needed.  All three, along with my Torges file, Bowyers Edge, Veritas Scraper, and Boogs Spokeshave, are always within reach whenever working a selbow.  I should restate that, the #50 was always alongside the others until it disappeared at the MT Selfbow Jamboree last spring.  Been looking to replace it but haven’t found a good used one yet.  The reviews on the new Nicholson rasps are not very good, thinking I might end up going with one of the Aurious from Lie-Nielsen.  I love their catalog, my wife once said I need to give her all my credit cards and wear a bib to catch the drool whenever I look at it.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

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Offline PEL

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #38 on: May 04, 2018, 02:08:19 AM »
For hogging off wood, I love the shinto saw rasp I have.  but like many others here I like having a variety.

Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Rasp needed
« Reply #39 on: May 05, 2018, 03:02:15 PM »
Walt, the Brazil made 49's and 50's aren't quite what their USA made forefathers were, but close, and they're still dang good tools and fill the niche between junk department store stuff and the $100 plus crowd.

I love that Lie Nielsen catalog too. There's some quality stuff in there. I was drooling over it a couple of weeks ago when it came in the mail. Especially that Boggs brass spokeshave. I said to no one in particular when my eyes crossed its path, "whew, that thing is sexy". My wife was sitting across the room and said, "What is?", and I showed her the picture. To my surprise and delight she said, "Hmm, yeah, that IS kinda sexy".

I gotta get me one of them.

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