Robtattoo's first selfbow buildalong (ish) FULL DRAW PICS!

[robtattoo]

Not really a buildalong, I've tried to photograph as many steps as I could, up to now, but I've missed a few & I'm sure I'll miss a few more along the way.

Okay, every good yarn begins with a backstory.....

I'm going to Canada in June for my first black bear hunt & I really, really want to take a bear with equipment that I built myself (well, bow & arrows anyway!) & a stone point, although that may well change.
I don't have time to mess this up simply due to lack of materials, workspace & equipment.
I've sought advice & design ideas from all the best people I know; Will & Pappy from Twin Oaks, Pat B, Alex Roche & a few others.
I have a long-ass draw & that is a HUGELY limiting factor when it comes to selfbows & no experience.

Alex donated me an 80" stave of 2 year cut, mostly straight Osage & showed me how to chase a ring...

   

As you can see, I numbered & marked each ring, so I didn't lose track!
   

As I got to what I thought would be my final ring (Oh-ho, how wrong I was!) I noticed that the stave started to crack down the back & after a few panicked phone calls & texts assured me not to worry, I stopped!

   

This is the stave, all peeled down, cut to 76" & full 7" wide.....
   
   

[robtattoo]

At that stage of the game, I'd gone as far as I could without hands-on help. I couldn't picture, in my head, where the bow would lie in the wood so a trip to Pappy's was in order (never a bad thing!)

I didn't photo the section I needed, but I bandsawed it down to this....
 

Avoiding the big, fist-sized cluster of pin knots. Unfortunately, that meant using the splintered side & chasing down a further 5 rings! *facepalm*

Next thing to do was layout the bow on the stave. I talked extensively to Will about this. Now, don't get me wrong, Pappy & most of the other guys at Twin Oaks are some of the best self-bowyers in the country, but they have their ways of doing things & that's the way it's done. Will NEVER thinks in the box & is not scared of trying different designs to produce a sweet, smooth, stack & shock free bow of any length, at any draw weight & length.
Again, sorry, no pictures, but he decided that a 72" NTN bow would be safe at 31" however with the traditional 4" handle & 2" fades I would have a huge amount of moving wood that would be shocky, no matter how thin the tips. He layed the bow out with a 4" handle, 4" fades. 1½" at the fades widening to 1¾" at 1/3 limb, 1½" at mid limb & then tapering to ½" tips. This creates a slightly 'leaf' shaped limb that has a bit more tension & compression area in the most stressed area, allowing the limb to be thinner. Clever, huh?!

Here he is doing the business on the saw....
 
 

[robtattoo]

He then showed me how to thin the blank & get it starting to bend. Measuring a limb thickness of a hair over 5/16" at the fades to a hair under 5/16" at the tips for now, with a flat, crowned belly. This leaves 3 even-width flat surfaces. The flat belly & 2 angled flats from the belly to the 5/16 mark on the side (If you see what I mean)

Back of the bow....
 

1/2 side profile....
 

[Pat B]

Rob, get a can od Bulls eye spray shellac from your local hardware store and keep the back sealed. Even "dry" staves can check when you expose a new back ring. I keep a can on my work bench all the time. The spray shellac is more expensive(about $8 a can) than the paint on  but as little as you will use and the spray can stuff doesn't have a shelf life like the paint on stuff.
 She's coming alone well. You won't go wrong with Will and Pappy's help. Looking forward to checking her out at the Classic.

[robtattoo]

If I remember correctly, those last photos were taken before I started thinning the limbs.
The next batch are where it sits right now, taken this morning.
You'll see in the photos the 3 facets I talked about & I've photo'd each knot individually.

Back....
 

Profile....
 

Non-working handle (luckily!)....
 

Mid fade, belly side....
 

Opposite fade, belly side
 

[robtattoo]

Mid-limb knots....
 

Opposite mid-limb knots....
 

Outer 1/3 point knots....
 

Opposite outer 1/3 point knots....
 

I'm hoping to get back up there this Saturday to start heat bending some of the whoops & bends out of the blank & if I have time, possibly get a long string on it.

From here on out, I'll try & update this thread whenever I do anything. I'm probably going to add a rawhide backing, a sinew wrap where one of the checks runs off the edge of the bow, skins (or similar) & a grip wrap.

Hopefully another newbie like me might learn or be inspired!

Oh, and if ONE MORE PERSON tells me to go slow & enjoy chasing that ring, I swear there'll be an article about me in the paper (possibly containing the words 'Frenzied', 'Multiple' & 'Savage'!  :D   :D

[robtattoo]

Thanks Pat. As soon as I got home I sealed the back with 4 coats of poly (all I had on hand) I'm hoping that'll stop it getting worse. I'm keeping the blank outside so it won't get too dry, too quickly in the house.

[robtattoo]

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention, this being my first I'm working on the possible theory that a wide, thin limb is under less stress than a narrow, thick limb & rather than aiming for my usual 65-70#, I'm looking to keep it between 45 & 55. As you can see, I'm trying for 'overbuilt' rather than perfectly proportioned!

[Pat B]

Rob, the width/thickness has more to do with the wood you use. In my experience osage prefers narrower, thicker limbs. And,if you don't over build your over build it will make a more durable bow for you without excess hand shock.
 Another think I keep handy on my work bench is a tube of super glue. I put it on all knots, back and belly and in any cracks that might develop at a knot.

[robtattoo]

Thanks again! Do you saturate knots with superglue, or just coat like you'd use a varnish?

[4est trekker]

I do as Pat does with superglue. I smear it on quickly with my finger and then immediately sand over it to get it filled up with wood dust.  I do this several times until there's not voids left.  

Best of luck, and enjoy both the build and the hunt!  

[Pat B]

Rob, I'll put a drop on each knot. On some bigger knots and knots with checks in them I have to do it twice. After the glue dries I lightly scrape then sand the excess glue off.  For big hollow knots I add saw dust with the super glue, making sure to fill all voids by doing it in layers. When you put a lot of glue and saw duct in the knot it will send off some pretty harsh vapors so be careful.

[robtattoo]

Ah ha! Gotcha  
So far all these little knots look to be sound. The light horizontal lines you can see on a couple of them are pencil marks. I'll make sure to keep a bottle or three on hand though.

[Pat B]

That is a real good shape for an osage bow. It is traditional and similar to the style bows Jay Massey built.
 You can't go wrong with those Twin Oak Boys.

[D]

Hey Rob that's awesome.  I heard you was going on the hunt.  I wish I knew something about selfbows so I could try to help,.  The only advice I could offer would be the one thing you asked not for anyone to tell you again..lol  Just kidding.  Its looking great so far.  Can't wait to see it all finished up.  I didn't know you drew 31" inches though..dang that's way out there.

[Walt Francis]

Looking good Rob.  I don't think you can find a better group of people to help you through the process.

It should be close to being a bow by the middle of next week, bring it to Cincinnati with you;I'd like to see it.

[glenbo]

Coming along nicely Rob. Best of luck on your Bear hunt

[frank bullitt]

Cool! Thanks for sharing this with us!
Good shooting,
Steve

[Roughcountry]

I'm enjoying the pics as you go. Thanks

[robtattoo]

Slow progress so far.... I 'think' I'm about floor tillered, but it's still super heavy. I'll be back at Pappy's tomorrow afternoon for more supervision. I'm really not comfortable going further until I get a more experienced eye on it. Hopefully I'll have it ready to go on the caul tomorrow &I'll start heating out some of the twists & deflex. If so, I'll be sure to update y'all!