Excessive reflex

[glenbo]

I have an Osage stave that has been sitting in the corner of my shop for a couple of years. This stave has a solid 4" of reflex. At what point is there too much . I was considering taking some out. Just wondering what some of you Osage gurus can suggest.

[Pat B]

4" is max for me. I'd put the stave on a caul and even it out through the bow. You might end up with less than 4" but 3" to 4" is all I put in anyway. Dry heat is the best way to go on a seasoned osage stave.
 If you put too much reflex in a stave you end up overstressing it just to get the bow to brace height and you loose most of it by the time the bow is completed. 3" to 4" is a happy medium giving the resulting bow reflex without overstressing it.

[glenbo]

Thanks Pat.

[John Scifres]

2-3" is about all I like.  I've done some bows with more but they are just too hard to handle.  I have removed natural reflex to make staves more manageable.

[Pat B]

I do the same John. I would rather start off with an even stave; even reflex from end to end or flat and add reflex later if necessary.
 Just trying to get a stave with excessive reflex to brace can be difficult and dangerous for both the bow and the bowyer.
 Some envelopes I just don't need to push! d;^)

[glenbo]

What do you think about a finger joint splice in the handle to remove some backseat? Just hate to cut a real beauty in half.

[Pat B]

Glen, get your stave to floor tiller stage, put it on a caul and use dry heat(heat gun) to manipulate it to fit the form. Osage manipulates very easily with heat.
 If you don't have a caul you can easily make one with scrap 2x4 or 2x6. If you don't have a heat gun a propane torch will work but you will have to be more careful.

[red hill]

PatB, can you add reflex to a bow after, or during the tillering process? I've always added reflex before tillering.

Most of the bows I've made had hickory, maple, or bamboo backings and I glued in the reflex when adding those.

[Pat B]

You can add heated in reflex after tillering but by then the wood cells in the belly have been crushed somewhat so the reflex might not hold. I usually add reflex either at floor tiller stage or sometimes at first brace.
 Both maple and hickory take belly tempering well and while on the caul adding reflex and/or straightening you can temper the belly also which will increase the compression strength.

[red hill]

Thanks, Pat.