First bow questions

[Tradtical Commando]

Ok, so here is what I have going… I started with the "poor folk bows" red oak bow, I want it to be in the 50-55lb @28" range. 64" long. oh yeah- my draw is just under 31"…. I shoot 3 under

I want to try and laminate some blocks on the back of the riser and put the riser more forward. Should I try and put something on the belly too?

Should I cut my shelf to center? or the highest part of the grip goes to center?

If i cut the shelf to center, then wouldn't it make the bottom limb shorter than the top limb… (I making sense at all?)

when it is time to tiller, how should I do it for 3 under? bottom limb stiffer?

[Tradtical Commando]

I am using a white oak stave. It has some natural reflex to it already. I also tried laminating some 5" pieces on the back at the tips to try and cut/sand a little more bend into the limb tips(as seen on another build). I like to experiment a lot  

[Pat B]

You are getting mighty fancy for your first bow. Why not learn to tiller first then you can build what you want.
 Also, for a 31" draw I'd suggest a lot longer than 64", more like 68" to 72".

[Tradtical Commando]

I know it. I can't help but get fancy in the wood shop. I am only 68" tall myself with knuckle draggers. I've never cared for bows longer than 64" so I figure if I am gonna try to build one it should be something I like (if it doesn't blow up on me). Hence the forward riser (hopefully it will compensate for my rediculous draw). Plus I am not afraid to mess up until I get it right. Any suggestions on my questions I asked or any other type to make my crazy experiment work?

[Tradtical Commando]

Is it a lost cause to try and make a bow that I can use and will like (not over 64") primarily out of a single piece of wood?

[John Scifres]

I think you should go for it.  Seems you have done a lot of research so try it and see what happens.  Please post pics as they help a lot.

[John Scifres]

I guess I didn't really answer your question.

In my opinion, you cannot make a bow out of oak that is 64" for a 31" draw.  I have made a lot of bows and I would not make one for a 31" draw out of anything other than osage.  It would be at least  68" long.

[George Tsoukalas]

Tac, none of the things you mentioned will help get you a short bow with a long draw out of oak.

If you draw an unbacked  64" white oak bow you'll snap it like a twig.

I've made hundreds of bows and I could not do it.

A nice design is double your draw and add 10".

Your first few should be backed. Linen, burlap and silk are good relatively easy to install backings.

Jawge

[Tradtical Commando]

Well darn… it seems to me that I should get it to 28" if it doesn't explode and give it to someone that isn't built like a chimp.

What do you all think could be the maximum draw from this puppy?
 I am gonna go for it building it either way.

Draw length aside, and 1st bow making success in mind, does anyone have any answers to my questions?…lol  

I may just build this bow and blow it up for giggles and learn from every mistake I can identify (or just move to laminated bows, it really sucks having such a long draw length)

[Echatham]

To address your questions about tillering for 3 under and location of the handle.... find the thread called "lets talk positive vs negative tiller"... Get your mind blown like the rest of us... Then just start tillering your bow while taking lots of pics so the gang can walk you through it.  The more receptive you are to the advice on here... The shorter the learning curve.  Also post a pic of you drawing 31"      one of those believe it when i see it things..... Not that i dont believe ya.... Just wanna see it  

[Tradtical Commando]

I understand what you mean and I know it sounds outlandish, but fella I wish i was blowing smoke. Imagine being my height having the arm length of a man 6'4"+ and always having to shoot 32" arrows(cuts out a lot of what I imagine would be fun cutting and tuning arrows instead I just get to play with point weight), never being able to find a comfortable quiver because you are an inch taller than a midget and have full length spears to tote around(don't even get me started on quivers), having to shoot a bow longer than you like because the string pinch and stacking makes your ring finger permanently numb (even Bg Jim won't make me a thunder child under 58" {which is what I am about to get by the way    excited  }).  The reach is handy when I need to use my hands though. I do need to keep a picture on file because no one believes me until they see it. Maybe I will get lucky and a buddy will chime in and save me the hassle.
 
Thats the best Ive got, its about 3 years old and Im actually short drawing in the pic and not bringing my back into play and my draw arm all the way back. That poor bow is a testament to the quality of an old browning bow. It never blew up.

[Tradtical Commando]

Anyways, I reckon I will finish playing with this bow and maybe try to look into making a laminated one or something.

[Pat B]

Try it and see what happens!

[bubby]

you said white oak right, if you go 64" ntn with a pyramid design, 4" grip, 1 1/2" long fades, go 2" wide at the fades and straight taper to 1/2" tips I feel is your best shot, white oak is pretty tough to break, you will probably get some set and that may help your cause, don't worry about all the forward grip stuff on this one I have built with these dimensions and went to 30".
with a bulbous grip your gonna lose a little bit of that ape arm thing ya got going anyway

[bubby]

go with an even thickness from end of fade to tip of 1/2" and tiller from there, should be plenty of meat left on the bone to hit target weight, if she don't blow

[LESKEN2011]

If your preference is the shorter bows, you could try one that bends in the handle, which would give the capacity for a longer draw with less stress on the limbs. Some of my favorite bows are bendies.

[Tradtical Commando]

Thanks Bubby. I will give it a go if it isn't too late and try to keep it close to what you are recommending as much as whats left will allow. Ive already gone kind of crazy on this thing. Ive got a pretty good amount of amazingly straight grain white oak. If this one doesn't play out then I will def give those dimensions a go.

Ive already moved on past the bending handle. May give it a go on my next one though.

[bubby]

white oak is amazing wood and will take a lot of bend, it loves heat too and once you get it floor tillered and bending some i'd heat treat the belly to offset some of the set you will get with the length's you are looking for and working with