Question on tiller and brace height

[razorback]

I am working on a hickory backed Ipe bow for the swap and want to check some things on the tiller. it is 66" ntn with glued on recurves of 1" and I glued in about 1 1/2" of reflex the reflex didn't stick except for about 1/2" on the right limb. So there is about 1" of reflex in both limbs with a little more in the left. the bow is currently at 18" and about 5 1/2" brace height. The middle to outer third is stiff at the moment and needs some work, on both limbs. The left limb is going to be the top, as the right is a little stiffer than the right.
My question is, how will increasing the brace affect the tiller and strain on the limb. Will it make the outer part of the limb bend more or put greater strain on the the inner part of the limb.
I am very happy with this bow so far but don't want to have to make excessive adjustments after I increase the brace height.

 

 

[Bowjunkie]

There won't be much difference if any. You'll notice a difference when going from a long string (longer than the bow) to a string short enough to brace it, it'll cause the outer limbs to bend more, but going from a 5 1/2" brace height to 6 1/2" on a bow that length won't change how or where the limbs bend a noticeable amount.

[razorback]

Thanks Jeff, that's what I thought just want to make sure before I move on. Now to get them outer limbs bending more.

[Bowjunkie]

Maybe it's the lighting, but it looks like the outer limbs are actually thicker than the inner limb areas.

Do you have a picture of the bow unstrung.

[John Scifres]

I think you need to pull from closer to the center of the string.  It looks to me like you are a good inch or two above that.

[LittleBen]

x2 what John said.

I agree that the outer 1/3 limbs are stiff still. I would stay away from the fades on both limbs, they are bending the most, not hinged but you don't wanna take any more wood off of the inner limb area.

How close are you to the intended draw weight and length?

Looking real good so far.

[Bowjunkie]

I'm of the belief that we should pull the string on the tree from the same place we'll be pulling it by hand when shooting it... which, depending on design, could be an inch or two from center... or farther.

[Pat B]

I always pull from the center of the string with the bow centered on the tiller block. The only way to get an accurate view of a drawn bow is by pulling it by hand. The static draw on a tiller tree only puts you in the ball park.

[John Scifres]

I agree Jeff but that still looks too high.  If I saw that drawn by hand I think I'd think the same thing.

Here's a little digipic magic.  Right limb flipped and overlayed on left.

   

[Bowjunkie]

More importantly,  I would first set the handle of the bow in the tree how I would hold it, and maybe he did, but looks more like he slid the handle over to keep the hook pulling straight down, or something. It's hard to evaluate tiller on here when we dont know whether it's being drawn how it will be by hand.

[John Scifres]

Agreed.

[razorback]

Thanks for the comments guys.
The handle is 4" and the string is being pulled from 1 1/2" above center, about where the middle finger would be for split finger shooting. Top of the cradle is flat so doesn't really represent how it would sit in the hand.
 i know there are several schools of thought on where to hook the string and I am not sold on any, so all good arguments would be appreciated, though that might be for another thread.
John, I like that digipic magic. I was thinking the fade of the left limb was bending way more than the right limb but that seems to show it is not the case.
Outer limbs are not thicker than the inner. The belly had a slight thickness taper before tillering and most of the tillering has been away from the fades. I am removing very little each time, 10 scrapes with the scraper so it is moving slowly, however the bend is moving down the limb.