Author Topic: First Glass Bow... (Read 1836 times)

Ice Mike · « **Reply #20 on:** May 27, 2014, 07:00:00 AM »

Let's say it is a scratch. That's just cosmetic and I can fix that.

But what if it is a crack all the way through the glass? Can that be fixed or is it just toast? Also, what could I have possibly done to make that happen? Could it have possibly been there before and I just didn't notice it? I'm like breazy..i think I would have seen some glue come up through it right? Could it have happened in the heat box? It's going to drive me nuts as I left at 4:30 this morning to go out of town and I won't be able to get back and sand the epoxy on the sides down until Friday to find out for sure how bad it is, but I'd like to have a plan in mind either way.

fujimo · « **Reply #21 on:** May 27, 2014, 08:33:00 AM »

I highly doubt it's a crack across the fibers like that without seem some other evidence, torn fibers or tension and compression failure in the surrounding fibers, is it on the inside or outside of a radius, on the outside there would be a gap for sure. . Some times you can lift a sliver on the tapers when sanding etc. but that will run straight with the grain into the bow, this is not that.
I'm with breazy, My guess it's a scratch

KenH · « **Reply #22 on:** May 27, 2014, 08:38:00 AM »

Use a magnifying glass. If it's a thru-crack you should be able to see the edges of the crack under enlargement. Doesn't look like a crack to me.

breazyears · « **Reply #23 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:37:00 AM »

To answer your question. If its a crack (witch it doesn't look like) than I would say its toast.
Where on the limb is it? Is it close to the riser, on the riser, close to the tip???

Ice Mike · « **Reply #24 on:** May 27, 2014, 01:12:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by breazyears:
To answer your question. If its a crack (witch it doesn't look like) than I would say its toast.
Where on the limb is it? Is it close to the riser, on the riser, close to the tip???

It's about 3 inches past the fade.

Ice Mike · « **Reply #25 on:** May 27, 2014, 08:48:00 PM »

Here's a few pics of it after I popped it out of the form last night.
I'll clean it up and cut the limb width tapers thursday or friday when I get back from Fort Polk.

Belly of bow

Back of bow..

rmorris · « **Reply #26 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:43:00 PM »

If it is a crack you can feel it by scratching across it with your fingernail , but that method does not rule out a surface scratch. When you cut out your limb profile take a look at the scrap piece your cut off and bend it to see if it snaps. Looking at the direction is could be a glass fiber from the edge of the glass that got tucked under during glue up, if that is the case it is only cosmetic.

rmorris · « **Reply #27 on:** May 27, 2014, 11:47:00 PM »

Also there are some other options if it is a crack, depending on its location on the limb ( closer to the tips) you will more than likely cut it away anyways, if you are closer to the fade outs then you can offset the centerline of that bow so you cut more off that side then the good side. Other then that it looks awesome and I bet you will walk away with a shooter!

Ice Mike · « **Reply #28 on:** May 28, 2014, 09:51:00 PM »

I got home this evening and couldn't stand waiting any longer to see if it was a crack or a scratch. After some cleaning up, it looks like it's just a scratch so I think I'm good. I figured since I had gone that far, I might as well get it cleaned up and go ahead and cut the limb width tapers.. Not looking too bad so far. I'll see what it looks like under a load on the tiller tree maybe tomorrow or friday.

Trux Turning · « **Reply #29 on:** May 28, 2014, 10:08:00 PM »

Looking good scratch and all! That will disappear once you apply some finish.

Ice Mike · « **Reply #30 on:** May 28, 2014, 10:09:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by rmorris:
Also there are some other options if it is a crack, depending on its location on the limb ( closer to the tips) you will more than likely cut it away anyways, if you are closer to the fade outs then you can offset the centerline of that bow so you cut more off that side then the good side. Other then that it looks awesome and I bet you will walk away with a shooter!

Thank you for the advice and the encouragement!!

I've got a question. I noticed while I was sanding down the profile that the glass fibers would roll off as I was going. That got me worried that squared off edges on the fiberglass might not be such a great idea. They are sharp already and have the perfect opportunity to to bury one of those fibers in my hand.

My question is, should I round off the edges of the glass with some fine grit paper to take care of that, or is there a better method?

Ranger44 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 28, 2014, 10:46:00 PM »

Looks good Mike. Grinding your own tapers for your first is a brave step in my opinion. Looks like you pulled it off well. You should be able to round those edges no problem but that advice comes from a rookie.

Those little fibers are nasty.

rmorris · « **Reply #32 on:** May 28, 2014, 11:56:00 PM »

Best way to round the corners is one of the 4x8 sanding blocks with the handle and foam under the sandpaper. I typically start with a 120 grit on the edges and work down to a finer grit to the point it is smooth to the touch. Also try not to bend the limbs too much if the edges are not completely sanded because one stray piece of glass can turn into a large problem.

Ice Mike · « **Reply #33 on:** May 29, 2014, 07:56:00 AM »

Got it rmorris! Thank you very much for that advice because I was just going to go put it on the tillering tree and see if the weight was where I wanted it. I'm glad I read this before I did that!!

breazyears · « **Reply #34 on:** May 30, 2014, 10:36:00 AM »

How's it going?

Ice Mike · « **Reply #35 on:** May 30, 2014, 02:16:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by breazyears:
How's it going?

Been busy the last couple days man. Trying to get moved.

I did get the bow on the tree and one limb is a little stiffer than the other. I pulled it slowly to 28" and it registered 40 pounds on the scale. Not quite what I was looking for but it will make a good bow for my younger son.

A question on the stiffer limb..how do you correct that with tillering on glass bows? Do I just make the width taper on the stiffer limb go back further toward the fades?

macbow · « **Reply #36 on:** May 30, 2014, 07:09:00 PM »

I'd really look close and measure carefully to see if there is any difference in width etc.
Maybe one limb working length is a little different?

Ice Mike · « **Reply #37 on:** May 31, 2014, 04:08:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by macbow:
I'd really look close and measure carefully to see if there is any difference in width etc.
Maybe one limb working length is a little different?

I think that my form may have a tad bit more reflex on one side over the other. I didn't use a half template when I made it. I just measured and drew the whole curve. The measurements on taper and working length all check out, but like I said, the reflex is more pronounced on one side over the other.

Can anybody offer some advice on fixing it?

Also, since it came in under weight, I was thinking about taking an inch off of each end and making it 62" ntn instead of 64" to bring the weight back up. Should I do that before I try to fix the stiffer limb or get it bending perfect then shorten it?

rmorris · « **Reply #38 on:** May 31, 2014, 05:43:00 PM »

Not sure what to tell ya about the reflex but you will want to chop it before you adjust anything else .

macbow · « **Reply #39 on:** May 31, 2014, 07:32:00 PM »

I would do the piking, while doing that maybe offsetting a little will help with timing of the limbs?

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