Short Recurve Build

[Kopper1013]

Ok great, thanks! Gonna have to keep this build along in mind when get my LVL

[polarbearforge]

Originally posted by beachbowhunter:
Kenny I meant making the template perfect before the router. I drew mine on the computer and had them laser cut out of plexiglas

That's how I made my template.  I am following the kit from Bingham's.  I took the pattern and glued it to a piece of hardboard.  I took it to work and scanned it in.  I cleaned it up, mirrored it and cut it out of 12g steel.  I used that for a template to route out my form.  That's about all the further I am in the project.

Jamie

[Mad Max]

Originally posted by polarbearforge:
 

Originally posted by beachbowhunter:
Kenny I meant making the template perfect before the router. I drew mine on the computer and had them laser cut out of plexiglas

That's how I made my template.  I am following the kit from Bingham's.  I took the pattern and glued it to a piece of hardboard.  I took it to work and scanned it in.  I cleaned it up, mirrored it and cut it out of 12g steel.  I used that for a template to route out my form.  That's about all the further I am in the project.

Jamie [/b]

change the subject some,  for a recurve limb
If I have 1/4" plexiglas and laser cut 2 pieces   1-1/2" wild about 24" long, then stack and glue them in the limb area of the form. then I would have a template for limb taper (width) on the robo sander.  the template would fit the curve (reflex) of the limb

[Robertfishes]

B..43. How thin is your form top piece? You may want to add a piece of U-channel to the top and run your hold down bolts thru it.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Yes robofish lol.... I have the same as the bottom it just extends past where the air hose would stick out. I just have no way to cut metal.

[Spurs]

What did you do to prepare the lvl?  I have some, and cant seem to find any the right thickness, or without some sort of concave in it.  That looks much better than what I have seen.  Did you drum sand it first?

[Robertfishes]

Perfect, thats a curvey form that will really put pressure on the thin spots! You can cut 1/4" aluminum with a skill saw..use a thin plywood blade 8tpi and lube the blade with either wax or WD40, the aluminum will stick to blade if not lubed..cut outside to keep oil and wax out of your bow shop.. I have a 10" mitersaw/chopsaw and a sawsall that are my first choices. Of course a hacksaw would work too.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Spurs when I purchased this LVL it came in 1.75 inch width which is perfect for this recurve form. When I make my longbow forms I have someone plane it down to 1.5 inch wide. I also am out there when they are cutting the piece I need from the 20+ long beams. I tell them what I am looking for and what it is used for. The guy that helps me has no problem helping me sort through the beams until I find a straight one... then he takes the chain saw to it and always gives me a foot on either side of my total length for room.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Well today I got my top piece of aluminum back from being cut. It is in place and tomorrow I will finish it up

 

Here's where I got it cut... It hung over a quarter inch or so
 

[Spurs]

Thanks for the info.  Great job!!

[kennym]

Originally posted by beachbowhunter:
Kenny I meant making the template perfect before the router. I drew mine on the computer and had them laser cut out of plexiglas

I did a handsanded template and built a couple bows to see how I liked em, then had a bud CAD the radii and cut me a 1/4" steel master template with a waterjet setup. Then you can make all the 1/4" plywood templates you want that match it exactly....

[beachbowhunter]

Great minds think alike....or something like that.    

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

So I have been working on this bow and form for some time. I have smoothed all the imperfections out of it and then used some filler. Resanded the entire form and now she is slick. Had to build a new top with wider ends because the first top broke due to the pressure in the hose.

Here she is now....
 

The form now has no issues holding under pressure.

My only issues is that I cut the form to have a 1.25 gap like you normally would between the top and bottom of the form. The area at the fades will not close up at all under pressure.

My question is can I drop the top of the form down some so that I can close up the gap.

This is the fade area under 70 psi....
 

What do you guys think about being able to close the gap???

[beachbowhunter]

Can you change the shape of your riser block fades?

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I probably could if I started the riser all over. Was hoping I could still get this one to fit but looking like not so much....

[Trux Turning]

I'd put some wedges in between the hose and the top of the form in that area- I've had good luck using dowels- I've got a selection of various sizes for those types of situations

[Trux Turning]

Here's a reference picture for you-
 

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Nice Trux I will try that prior to starting the riser over again... Thanks bud!

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I have some rubber bands as well I will try and pull those fades in close prior to putting the dowels in. That may help with getting the fades to close up a bit.

Always learning new tricks

[Mad Max]

glue more wood to the form above the hose.

1/2" to 3/4" gap in that area, dry run as many times as it takes