Taper/Whadya do now?

[Tilbilly]

Received some fir shafts today. The shafts are tapered, but someone forgot to first put on the nock tapers  before the shaft taper. I grind on my point/nock tapers usually. Am I up the crick, or would self-nocks be the way to go here? Dunnit before, just wasn't planning to. What's your suggestion(s).

[laddy]

Get a nock taper tool that is the size of the shaft, I am guessing 5/16''

[Orion]

If the shaft has been tapered to 5/16, it's probably too small for self-nocks.  How do you grind your nock, point tapers?  I use a self made jig set at 11 degrees which I use on my table saw equipped with a sanding disk.  Just put a few thicknesses of masking tape near the nock taper end to account for the thinner shaft there due to the tapering, and then nock taper as I normally do.  If you have a woodchuck tapering tool with a sanding disk, a few pieces of masking tape in the groove closest to the sanding disk might do the trick.  Good luck.

[Tilbilly]

Orion, sounds like I have the same setup. May try the tape idea. The very end of the shaft is .310 to .312 according to my Vernier. So the area where the base of a plastic nock should go is at least that or thicker, thankfully.

[Tilbilly]

Just solved my own problem. Sorry, guys. The board I was using had 11/32"slots in it to lay the shaft in and grind tapers. Obviously a tapered shaft would sit at an angle against those straight walls.

Recently made a new board using "V"-shaped slots. Just realized that laying even a tapered shaft in that "V" causes the shaft to lay centrally from side to side. The "V" shape centers the shaft. No tape necessary. I'll just dig in and taper.

[Orion]

QED  

[Fletcher]

Tilbilly, you beat me to the answer.  The "V" groove is the way to go.  Thanks to Woodchuck.