Self Bow question

[jarheadjoe]

Thanks for the assist and the link. Just didnt know how to shape the recurve portion of the glue on before adding he grooves for the string

[Roy from Pa]

[Roy from Pa]

[Roy from Pa]

[Roy from Pa]

[Roy from Pa]

Any of those help?


 

[jarheadjoe]

Eureka! I get it! Thank you so much and Semper Fi!
and Merry Christmas!

[Roy from Pa]

LOL, your welcome.... And Merry Xmas to you also..

[Roy from Pa]

[mwosborn]

Hey Roy - you have any pics of tip overlays?


   

Seriously though - Your tips always look great, I wish mine ended up looking as nice!

[Steve B.]

Roy, curious as to your experience with superglue for the overlays?  Also, why the plastic wrap for the smoothon?
Thanks

[Roy from Pa]

LOL Mitch. Steve, without the plastic wrap, the gum bands get embedded in the glue and makes it a pain to sand off. Plus it keeps my drying box clean. I've only ever used smooth on for tips and have never had one come off.

[Eric Krewson]

The key is to make them slim and "sexy" if there is such a thing in bow making.

You don't want to cut the back groove so deep as to cut through your overlay wood into your limb wood, your limb tip might snap off if you did.

I add and extra groove on the top limb for a simple bow stringer I make out of parachute cord. With the stringing groove I can string a bow that is really high poundage easily when I go from the long string to the short string during the tillering process.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Here is how the stringer works, top limb;

   

I make the bottom nock a bit wider so the stringer can fit over the bow string;

 

[Eric Krewson]

Here is another tip; this is an easy way to locate where to cut your side string grooves.

If you only cut the groove on the top of an overlay while you are on the long string and wait to cut your side grooves until you reach normal brace height on the short string, you can simply draw a line on each side of the string and cut your side nocks accordingly.

   

[frank bullitt]

The stringer nock is nice, Eric!

Nice tips, and helpful tips, too!

[Roy from Pa]

Good points, Eric..

[jarheadjoe]

Hello Roy, you had answered some questions for me in regards to tip overlay's in December and I really appreciated it. I was hoping I could ask you a few more questions. I finished my bow and it came out reall well.I do not get on the tradgang site much due to working hours. So I took the liberty of contacting you this way. If ou can't answer any questions, I understand. I am going to try and figure out how to post pictures of the bow. The trouble I am having is with the Flemish string.After I tie the sting and then string the bow and serve it, the string pops and I have to start all over again. To avoid this the last time, I served the loop[s as well. Is this alright to do? In addition, when measuring brace height on a pyramid bow, am I measuring from the string to the handle portion on the bell or the middle of the bow starting at the back? Lastly, Flemish or continuos loop? Thanks for any assistance and as I am off to work, I will look for a reply as soon as I can

[takefive]

Brace height is measured from the belly of the handle straight back to your string nock.  Not sure if I understand your question about the Flemish string.  Does the twisted string below the loop unravel when you're bracing the bow?  I'm a noob string maker and I've had that happen because I twisted and wrapped the loop in the wrong direction.

[bubby]

I know what you want to do, in his build he glues on I believe a 5" tip overlay to give a reflexed tip, kind of a recurve, if you have the top cut just match the bottom to the top to start, I have some pics i'll see if I can find them