Bamboo Backed Ipe R/D Longbow [with Video]

[bowhunter15]

UPDATE: Here is the completed build-a-long how-to video. Thanks for everyone that helped me on these forums!

   YOUTUBE VIDEO  

I'm new to the forum, but have browsed in the past and wanted to make my own trad bow for several years now. I've been fairly successful with a compound in the past, but have finally made the first move in ordering woods for a hunting bow.

I ordered a 68" kit on **** with pre-tapered and floor tillered bamboo and ipe with osage handle and tip overlay blocks. The ipe is pretty dark, and the nodes on the bamboo are spread apart well. There is also minimal warp on the bamboo, which should make my life easier. I currently am in an apartment and don't have direct access to tools like a band saw, which affected my decision to order the ready-to-glue kit. Anyways, here are my goals with this bow:
-moderate R/D
-60lb at draw length (29" for compound with release, but I still need to determine for finger shooting). I'd like to start high as I can always lighten it later if needed
-Efficient (fast for the 9gpp standard, even if it costs me some noise)
-Learning experience. I hope to discover things through this bow that will help guide me if I want to make tweaks in the future (shorter length, more/less r/d, etc.)

As I understand it, tillering a R/D isn't the easiest thing in the world, which is why I plan on going really slow and posting lots of pictures for feedback through the process.

       

[fujimo]

oh oh... its a downhill slide from here mate
   :D    :D  
looks great and well onto your way.
i would get a hold of "Roy from pa" he has a really great system figured out with a very easy to build caul, and heaps of clamps- and he really has that tillering down to a fine art-as do many others on this forum too.
but Roy is easier to schwindle- hes kinda older and more feeble, and should be real easy to bribe with some of that horse p#$$ stuff he calls beer  

[Roy from Pa]

fujiboy, knock it off..  

 

I would place your mid limb blocks exactly half way between the tip of the limb and the flare.

[Roy from Pa]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSwx80xjTUE&list=UUBMjR2l-xfFufcLpkUpYYBQ

 

[Crittergetter]

I'll be watching this with great interest! I thought about doing one but didn't want to give Mrs Roybert any more ammo to use against me!!

[Roy from Pa]

What's you mean gettercritter?  

[takefive]

Yep, Roy is the man for your R/D longbow questions.  He makes really sweet laminated wood bows.  Always surprised that he can still draw one back, elderly as he is.    

You'll be amazed by how quiet a wooden bow is; I know I was.
Welcome to the forum!

[Roy from Pa]

Garrett, check out this thread on tillering for equal limb timing. Equal limb timing a bow makes it super quiet and a great shooting bow.

    http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=012442    

And check out this thread also, it will teach you a lot about glue up's and tillering a R/D wooden bow...

    http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=012149

Greg, yer on the thumpin list..  

[bowhunter15]

I knew it would be a good idea to start a thread for this. Thanks for the info! I went out and bought the wood and clamps today for the gluing process. Roy, I noticed that in your pictures and thread, it seemed like you glued the pieces of the bow (minus the riser/handle piece), then shaped and cut the riser piece, gluing it on next. Is that correct? I've seen other builds where people did the backing, belly, and handle all in one gluing step.

I suppose the reason would probably be that if you're making a bow without deflex, you could glue the handle block right on with it. But with deflex, you can't really bend that handle block and need to first glue the belly/back to see what shape the handle will need to be to fit. Then glue the handle on in a second step. Is this correct?

[bowhunter15]

Ah, I just found the answer on another thread! So I guess the question is... with the way that my ipe came pre-tapered, should I just use it as is and glue everything in one shot? Or should I sand down that handle ridge on the ipe, so that it will form a bend in the handle when clamped, and glue in two steps?

     /20150208_193925_zpsygvtp88j.jpg

Also, I'm having trouble finding Unibond 800 locally. The only online store I found selling in the pint size listed it at $8.79 but $18 bucks shipping ground. That's a bit ridiculous. Does anyone have a better source, or a different type of glue that can be bought in a store?

[mwosborn]

It looks to me that your kit was designed to be a straight handle bow.  You could play around with a form lke the one Roy showed and maybe still get a littler deflex out of the fade and reflex the tips.  I don't think I would sand it down, but it could be done.

I couldn't find any unibond locally either.  I paid the outrageous shipping!  BTW unibond has a shelf life so don't order a big batch unless you are going to use it up with 6 months or so.

[bowhunter15]

How does it look on the form? I don't have the handle block on there right now, but seeing as the thicker handle region is so flat, I'll probably shorten the middle support and stick it in there to glue in one step. The middle supports are halfway between the tips and the fades. Not a ton of deflex, but given the stiffness of the center, this kit was probably designed to be more of a reflex only bow anyways. I'm fine with that.

I will say that there is a large amount of tension "as is" in the form. I definitely wouldn't try to bend it anymore out of fear of something breaking. I should probably order the glue sometime soon.

   

[bowhunter15]

After some digging on the site, I discovered that Weldwood Contact Cement looks like a good alternitive glue, and I can buy it at Home Depot for $10/2 pints. They also have a 3fl oz container for $5, but I might as well have extra left over than not enough as I'm ready to glue.

   

[fujimo]

nope thats not what you want for gluing wood- i know the can says for gluing wood- but that is more for formica to counter top type applications.
it is a neoprene  based glue(  think wetsuit material)
you either need to use one of the titebonds- if you have very good mating surfaces- or a gap filler like an epoxy( smooth on ea40) or unibond.
the unibond is easy to use- water clean up-  and tough glue- but leaves a brown glue line- if you are glueing white woods- which you are not- then use the epoxy if that worries you!
 someone will tell you where to get unibond around where you are.
 and get a toothing plane blade if you go that route- 3 rivers archery sells them.
good luck mate!

[fujimo]

looking at roys form, and yours- - i know you cant get a whole lot of deflex out of your piece of ipe- but it seems that there is a lot of reflex- i dont know if in that configuration that it is such a good idea. if it were me- and i hate it when people say that- i usually tell them to go get their own- and do what they want- anyway- ...i might grind off that handle piece- get the deflex you want- then add a handle afterwards like the ol fella does .
cheers.

[fujimo]

can see he's not married- bows and boats inna bedroom!!!!   :D

[macbow]

For your first one I would suggest going with what you have.
Having that built in start on the fades will help you in that area which is a trouble spot for first builds.

On the glue the unibond is the way to go for these.
Look up the Nocking Point. Terry has decent shipping prices.
I just picked up three cans at our UBM banquet from them.

[fujimo]

what do you think of the profile he has there Ron?
whats your feelings/knowledge

[Roy from Pa]

If you were to make your mid limb posts shorter than your center handle post, that would induce some deflex. But I would do as Fuji-O boy said and grind the handle area flat with the rest of the bow, then glue on a handle later. My center post is 3 3/4 high, my mid limb posts are 2 3/4 high. Another thing, when clamping down bows like this, your wooden platform of your form is going to bow up some, that is why I bolted one inch angle iron to the sides of my form. Yours will work, but you will lose some d/r.

Unibond800 1/2 gallon containers for $25.00. Scroll down to unibond800, first glue is unibond one.

    https://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm  

   

[bowhunter15]

Thanks for the quick replies. Saved me from wasting my time with the contact cement. I ordered some Unibond 800. I think I will grind down the center portion and do 2 step. It seems like there's enough experience on the forum to give me confidence in going that route.