Author Topic: New pattern sander (Read 1170 times)

rmorris · « **on:** February 08, 2015, 01:47:00 AM »

Well I just got a wild hair and started thinking " I could turn that rigid osolating belt sander everyone has into a pattern sander"

Here is what I came up with....

After removing the osolation from the machine I turned down the drum at the base so I could press fit a 1"ID 2"OD bearing on the drum and the made a doughnut out of corrian to press over that bearing. The project cost me about $15 in parts.

Oh yah... I was able to modify my wood lathe a little to make this happen

Buemaker · « **Reply #1 on:** February 08, 2015, 04:24:00 AM »

Nice, I like doughnuts. Bue--.

JamesV · « **Reply #2 on:** February 08, 2015, 11:38:00 AM »

I have the same sander and mine came with some donut shaped metal collars and lots of other gadgets that I never use.

If you grind a lot of glass with that machine be sure to blow out the motor afterwards or it can short the motor and burn up the unit.

James

bsv · « **Reply #3 on:** February 08, 2015, 02:48:00 PM »

how did you remove the osolation?

goobersan · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2015, 03:59:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by JamesV:
I have the same sander and mine came with some donut shaped metal collars and lots of other gadgets that I never use.

If you grind a lot of glass with that machine be sure to blow out the motor afterwards or it can short the motor and burn up the unit.

James

I run 2 shopvacs while using mine. But like James said, we definitely have to keep an eye on the dust.
Nice picture of Roy

BenBow · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:37:00 PM »

Ralph what would you charge to do that to mine?

rmorris · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2015, 11:46:00 PM »

BVS, after I removed the plastic cap under the motor there is a C washer that holds the osolation legs agents a bearing, from there the bearing OD was .875 , the same ID as a 3/4" copper pipe coupling. I inserted a piece of 3/4" copper pipe inside a coupling until it was about 1/8" below flush. This allowed the coupling to couple the bearing and the 3/4" pipe to act as a seat for the bearing. I then did a few test runs on how long the coupling / pipe combo had to be to get the drum at the correct height. I think my final length from the base of the bearing ended up just over an inch.

Galen, when ever we can get our scheduled to meet up I will get it done for ya.

BenBow · « **Reply #7 on:** February 09, 2015, 09:44:00 AM »

Im retired now Ralph so if you have time let me know what works for you. I do have an extra drum that Can be turned down.

JamesV · « **Reply #8 on:** February 09, 2015, 10:35:00 AM »

Goobersan..................

The last glass I ground I connected my shop vac and the glass burned out the motor on the shop vac. When the motor on the sander burned out it was replaced on warranty from Ridgid. Keep your papers on that sander.

James

rmorris · « **Reply #9 on:** February 09, 2015, 12:22:00 PM »

An extra drum, like 2 drums total? I am head up to farmington till Thursday night for school but I will give you a call when I get back on on Friday or this weekend. I think the only part I don't have for this is the bearing and I think they run $13

BenBow · « **Reply #10 on:** February 09, 2015, 06:56:00 PM »

Yes Ralph an extra drum 2 total. Where do I need to get the bearing at?

goobersan · « **Reply #11 on:** February 09, 2015, 10:00:00 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by JamesV:
Goobersan..................

The last glass I ground I connected my shop vac and the glass burned out the motor on the shop vac. When the motor on the sander burned out it was replaced on warranty from Ridgid. Keep your papers on that sander.

James

Did you have a filter bag installed? I have the drywall bags and the regular air filter in place. Hopefully it isn't just dumb luck

Frank Novak · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2015, 07:39:00 PM »

Well after taking my sander apart like described I cant figure out how to complete the change. Ralph if you could give more detail on the change over I would really appreciate it. I can usually figure out most of these type conversions but this one has me stumped. Any help would be great. Thanks, Frank Novak.

rmorris · « **Reply #13 on:** February 10, 2015, 09:12:00 PM »

Frank, I am going to do a second one this weekend. I will take pictures and hopefully help ya out.

After you take off the black cap under the motor I had to remove a bunch of grease from the end of the shaft. That exposed the c washer that needs to be expanded to remove the black plastic part with 4 legs. From there you will see the bearing and the black part that looks like a gear stays in.

Hope that helps till this weekend

rmorris · « **Reply #14 on:** February 10, 2015, 09:17:00 PM »

I am not sure what the largest bearing you can get with 1/2"ID but I know you can get 1"OD. You could easily with a shaft collar a proper sized bearing and some washers and use the spindle drums to do the same thing. You would have to shorten the drums to work but replacement ones are cheep on the Internet.

longrifle · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2015, 10:06:00 PM »

This would be a great build along piece, I would love to be able to do that with mine. Or you could sell all the parts and make some cash for yourself. I myself would need more pics and info on how to do it.

Frank Novak · « **Reply #16 on:** February 13, 2015, 07:38:00 PM »

Ralph, Im looking forward to your weekend post about the pattern sander. I "think" I have the first part figured out. Im still in the dark as how to change over the drum with the drive gear and install the new roller on the bottom and get it all back into the frame. I hope you can do this because my brain is starting to hurt.Hopefully its not as hard as Im making it. Thank again.Frank

rmorris · « **Reply #17 on:** February 13, 2015, 08:41:00 PM »

Well a second one was done today and lots of pictures were taken. Not sure when they will be up but it should clear a lot of stuff up.

rmorris · « **Reply #18 on:** February 17, 2015, 01:30:00 AM »

Well I got a little more work done this weekend. I originally had my templates made on a water jet table and I don't recommend this because I did not get smooth cuts like a cnc machine would do and the water jet is not a perfect square cut, kinda slants inward a little. Needless to say it took some cleaning up

On my first attempt I used a 2" flush trim bit with a router and that was just scary. After every thing was cut out I attempted to press everything together with c clamps and ended up breaking the thin middle wood. I designed the riser in a CAD program and gave each piece a .100" offset. I figured .001" would provide good visual inlays but when I went to placd my 3 veneers about .030 in thick each it was too stiff for the tight radius and broke the center piece.

I was going to take the same approach beach bow took and only cut one section at a time and then glue , and give it another try. Instead I removed most of the radius ( it will be cut off when I cut the riser pads) and re made all my jigs bigger and better with the help of my new flush pattern sander.

I was not able to finish the last part tonight and it will have to wait till Friday when I get back from school. But I plan on doing a test run on some pine this weekend and not trashing my good wood.

rmorris · « **Reply #19 on:** February 17, 2015, 01:43:00 AM »

Original template and failed design

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New larger template with and without how the final product should look

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Tem plate to be cut out and reproduced and the parts they will make

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Also did a test run to see if everything is square

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Author Topic: New pattern sander (Read 1170 times)

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