Board bow Poor Folks/Menards bow

[bckskin2]

Hi, I have a nice piece of Osage that is maybe 1/8 done, but I want to build a board bow to practice tillering etc so I do not turn that Osage into kindling. I have been getting advice on a strictly primitive board also. I am thinking of building a Poor Folks board bow including the dry wall tape and velcro. I would still like to do the raw hide or sinew backing some day. I am wavering on trying to improve on Sam's design such as different wood. Maple maybe and fiber glass instead of dry wall tape or should I stick with the program until I get at least one shooting bow? One thing no blue. It was my ex-mother-in-law's favorite color. Maybe a nice desert camo tan? Thanks,
Jerry

[Roy from Pa]

Check this out.

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000122

[mwosborn]

Lots of bows built off of 4est trekker's build a long.

[bckskin2]

Thanks guys I bookmarked this. He starts with a lot bigger board than Sam.

[bubby]

here's another way  http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html

[bckskin2]

Thanks Bubby, you used hard maple and no backing. Is hard maple better than red oak assuming both have straight grain?

[George Tsoukalas]

Linen, burlap and silk make good board backings but straight grained stock is a must.
Chose the board wisely.
More on my site.
Jawge
 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html

[bckskin2]

I think I may try drawing a picture of what I want before I go to the lumber yard if I cannot get the pictures to print so I can show the man what I need |\\\\\\| end and ||||| face?

[bckskin2]

Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
Linen, burlap and silk make good board backings but straight grained stock is a must.
Chose the board wisely.
More on my site.
Jawge
  http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html  

Thanks Jawge, I would never have thought of burlap. Maybe wrap the handle with hemp twine to match the look. I hope to get to the lumber yard Fridayor Monday armed with pictures.

[George Tsoukalas]

There are 3 board cuts.

There's plain sawn where the end or but looks like this =. There's also rift sawn which looks like this //. For this look at the face and look
for the grain to run straight tip to tip...one end to the other ideally.

For a 50-55# bow 2 run outs per limb are ok.

For a backed bow, more run outs may work but no run outs are preferred.

The other board cut is 1/4 sawn (||). It has to be completely straight on the edge. No run outs.
Hope this helps.

Jawge

[bckskin2]

Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
There are 3 board cuts.

There's plain sawn where the end or but looks like this =. There's also rift sawn which looks like this //. For this look at the face and look
for the grain to run straight tip to tip...one end to the other ideally.

For a 50-55# bow 2 run outs per limb are ok.

For a backed bow, more run outs may work but no run outs are preferred.

The other board cut is 1/4 sawn (||). It has to be completely straight on the edge. No run outs.
Hope this helps.

Jawge

Jawge, When I go to the lumber yard should I look for the 1/4 saw, Rift, or plain? They will do custom cutting so they might provide any. I am looking at 35 to 40 lbs at 28"
Thanks, Jerry

[John Scifres]

Here's a classic by Dean Torges that offers advice on selecting boards at the lumber yards.

 http://www.stickbow.com/FEATURES/SELFBOWS/beginnings.CFM


And here's another from Mickey Lotz:

 http://sticknstring.webs.com/ferretsboardbow.htm

[George Tsoukalas]

I prefer rift or plain.
Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

John, that link from Dean is not for selfbows.
Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

Mickey's directions are excellent as are Dean's.

But for a first timer I suggest a bend in the handle bow. 1.5 in  out to mid limb for 50-55#.
1 3/8" for 45-50#.
No narrowing of the handle.
No glued on pieces.
Easier to build. Easier to tiller. JMO.

Back with linen, burlap or silk a good idea for the first few bows.

Jawge

[bckskin2]

I got a riff sawed red that has pretty fair gain and should have at least two bows in it. The man at the lumber yard was very helpful. He also showed me some ash and hickory.
Jerry

[John Scifres]

Can you post pics?  "Pretty fair grain" is not exactly a glowing endorsement.  Grain is everything on a red oak board bow.

[George Tsoukalas]

Yes, please post some photos, bckskin.
Good grain is vital.
Jawge

[bckskin2]

I have to figure out how to do pictures. The board is 74 1/4" x 4 3/4" x 13/16 thick.

[bckskin2]

Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
Mickey's directions are excellent as are Dean's.

But for a first timer I suggest a bend in the handle bow. 1.5 in  out to mid limb for 50-55#.
1 3/8" for 45-50#.
No narrowing of the handle.
No glued on pieces.
Easier to build. Easier to tiller. JMO.

Back with linen, burlap or silk a good idea for the first few bows.

Jawge

Jawge, would you suggest the build along labeled "Building a board bow" or the one just labeled "Board Bows"? Sorry to be a pain, but I am easily confused. 68" x 1 1/4 for a 30-35 lbs draw weight? I have the burlap, but can get linen easily enough.
Thanks for the help.
Jerry