Zradixson, the area outside of the fades is the last part I work on. That area gets a lot of stress applied to it. The farther you pull the bow down the tree, the more stress applied there. It will come around when you get to a longer draw, but yes it will/may need some wood removed, and you will be able to see that.. If you look hard enough..
And then all you need to do is work on that area.. I concentrate on the mid limb area first, then as I get farther down the tree, the tips and fades come into the equation. The whole idea of tillering, is to get an even bend in the entire limb. While not developing any hinges... Wood bows are a unique animal. Tillering them takes time, hours, patience, persistence, and a keen eye, with a gizmo for me, to get the results required for a nice bow. But a "key factor" is the layout of the limb material, prior to glue up and tillering. My bows are already pre tapered thickness and width wise before glue up. That gives me a good head start when it comes time for the tree process. Just relax, John. Don't over think this bow stuff Mr. Engineer..
Go slow, remove wood in areas needed with a goal in mind. Keep looking at the surface of the belly of the bow from the side. Walk back 6 or 8 feet, bend down to an even plane with the limbs and look at the entire belly surface. You want a nice gentle even gradual thickness taper from the fades to the tips. Look for low spots and mark them with NO. Look for high spots and run lines across them, meaning, remove some wood there, slowly... It's fun, and you need a game plan when tillering. Hell it's all fun, wood or glass bows. Selfbows or tri lams, bbo's, etc.. Or whatever type of bow a guy wants to make.. Just enjoy the journey....
Topic: Might make another tri lam.. (Read 1851 times)
