Osage Questions

[Robyn Hode]

I have been researching and reading different forums about 'Z' splicing osage wood stave billets for several days now but I do not see a consensus of what billets should and should not be joined.

For example:
Some forums say you should use sister billets so the growth rings match on both limbs but other forums do not mention it. I do understand sister billets would be more efficient but I just want to build a working bow.  

I have about six 40 inch osage staves that are about two inches wide and two inches thick left over from other selfbow builds. My wife wants to burn them in the fire pit but I can't bring myself to do it. I mean it is osage.

So I thought I would ask a few questions from the pros before my left overs go up in smoke.

1. Do osage billets have to be sister billets? I have two 40 inch stave billets from different trees can I join them and make a bow from them? What should I look for in the stave billets? (I plan to use Unibond 800 glue.)

2. When preparing the stave billet for a 'Z' splice I understand then belly needs to be flat and the handle roughed out to shape. How flat does the belly need to be? Should I plane it flat or can I just eyeball it flat using a rasp?

3. If I really screw up chasing a ring or the rings are really thin can I just flatten the back of the bow and back it with hickory or bamboo?


Thank you for your time.
Any help would be appreciated.

[Bowjunkie]

No they dont have to be sister billets. I have joined many from different trees. There are advantages to using sister billets but it isnt imperative.

Before cutting the z splice, the belly or bottom of the handle doesnt HAVE to be flat. It makes it nice and convenient if it is, but if it isnt, here's something you can do. Many times, I have clamped them to a piece of 3" angle iron, overhanging the angle far enough that the bandsaw blade cuts the splice without contacting the angle. The billet can be adjusted so that it is level/plumb regardless of whether the bottom is flat, and it can be shimmed if necessary on the angle and then clamped tightly.... The angle is then held flat to the bandsaw table as the splice is cut out, and all cuts will be plumb and in the same plane. Ive cut out some REALLY odd shaped stuff this way and it works pretty slick.

[John Scifres]

I once spliced 2 limbs from bows that broke together.  One was a ELB style and the other was a flatbow.  So, no, they don't have to be sisters.  Just make sure you match the characteristics like ring thickness, earlywood:latewood ratio, and density as closely as possible.

If you have 2"x2", you should certainly flatten the belly, making sure it is parallel to the back, or as close as you can get it.  It will make life so much easier for you.

With 40" long, you have a decent margin of error if you screw the first cut up.  Or even the second...

Yes, you can back it if you want.

[Pat B]

as long as you get both to bend evenly and together you can use two different woods in the same bow I've seen a few of these over the years. Pappy built a bow with osage and yew limbs.

[mikkekeswick]

1 - No, look for similar shapes.
2 - Use Bowjunkies tip or else yes make them dead flat so that they do NOT rock at all when on the sawtable.
 3 - It doesn't matter if the rings are paper thin. You need to start out with the right attitude when chasing a ring, give it your all and take your time. There is no reason why you shouldn't be able to chase a ring perfectly first time if you go slow enough!

[Robyn Hode]

Thank you for the advice.

I have two billets with similar growth rings that I will try first.

I also have two broken bows I was going to burn but now I will 'Z' splice them together and make a bow.

Thanks again.