Processing Yew

[snowplow]

I just got a once in a lifetime yew bundle from my brother in law (in the tree service). Large and straight as an arrow cut in lengths about 7-8'.

Right now its just sitting on my shop floor. It was cut about 3 weeks ago.

Do I need to seal the ends?  

Do you split into staves when its green or after it fully dries?

I have so much I should probably trade some of this away.

Thanks for the help!

[Bowjunkie]

Seal the ends IMMEDIATELY any time you aquire bow wood that hasn't completely stabilized in moisture content. I like to use a couple coats of shellac.

Since yew trees are generally smaller in diameter, yew logs are often cut on a bandsaw rather than split, which makes better use of it.

[snowplow]

Thanks Bowjunkie, so are you saying to cut them into staves after they are dried?

My logs are 8"- about 3" in dia. Would you band saw the big ones? Why is band sawing better?

[LittleBen]

I think band sawing is advised because it is a high value wood and splitting can be tricky. Someone with more experience will hopefully comment.

Seal them right away or you will lose everything. Use wood glue in my opinion it is the best for sealing ends. Never had any wood check from an end I sealed with TbIIi

[snowplow]

Thanks Ben will do!

[fujimo]

yew can handle the violations that are created by the sawing- unlike some other woods that should be split- but when i do a self bow, i still follow the grain- even if it is artificially - ie i cut to follow the grain, as apposed to splitting it, if you split it, i have found that it likes to run out- really tough to get a good split- some start in the middle , and work outwards- but i think it is still running out, just over a smaller distance- and so not so noticeable.

i do totally agree with the sealing the ends, however i gotta say, i have never had yew check with me- now i am sure that has a lot to do with moisture in the air- our humidity is usually from 95 to 100% here with low temps- average summer day- 20 deg cel.- i have had more problems with the backs splitting wide open, if they are brought inside before they are ready.
 yew likes a mc of about 12%, for bows.
 i leave mine outside in my unheated shop, until it gets down to about 18% then i bring it in and deal with it.
winter is the worst-- i brought some yew in a while ago- i had sawed into beautiful staves- had them in my indoor shop- went up stairs to do something- came back half an hour later( literally!!) and the staves were split open all over their backs so bad, that they were un usable- cracks half an inch deep or deeper- but the ends didnt check            
 
 but DO seal the ends, get the bark off , seal the backs WELL- and saw it into staves- violating the inner fibers will relieve any stress, and prevent the backs from splitting.
strap them to forms, to induce back set etc- and then wait.....
if you try and chase the moisture from yew, it will be painful    :D  
good luck mate- beautiful wood eh?
what ring count do you have on those pieces

[Roy from Pa]

Your just a bundle of info WayneOboy..  

[fujimo]

[snowplow]

Thanks a lot fugimo!

What do you mean by ring count, per inch?

So do I understand this right; Either seal the ends of the logs and leave them alone or cut into staves, peel bark without nicking the wood, then seal the whole part that was covered in bark?

[fujimo]

1.i would seal the ends- regardless- just saying what i found with the humidity in my area
2.take the bark off and seal the back
unlike some other woods, the sapwood rings  can be violated, it is super tough sapwood.
i have chased rings in the sapwood before- kinda- its fine ringed!and super hard to see the rings
as long as the back is all nice and smooth, no dips and nicks.
you want the finished bow to have about 1/4 " of sapwood when done- so if you have more sapwood than that- you will have to thin it anyway- i have seen bows that were half sap and half heartwood- and they seemed ok!
3. after sealing , saw your logs into staves- that will help stop the backs from splitting( tension release!) and will allow them to dry a bit quicker.
4. store them in a cool, shaded, WIND free area, and allow them to drop in mc until they reach about 18% or so, - dont rush it!!!!
5. at any stage you can rough them out somewhat- that will also help with the drying- you can strap them to boards- to straighten them or to induce back set .
if you do any work on them, DO NOT bring them into a heated shop to work on- that Will destroy them- work on them outside- where you are storing them.
6.
ring count- look at the cut end- and measure an inch- and count how many growth rings there are in an inch of radius

if you want to call me and chat about it- i can pm you my tel #
 cheers
wayne

[snowplow]

Great information! Thanks!!

What do you seal with? I have heard Shellac and Wood Glue.

Is there a trick to getting the bark off without nicking? It's flaky bark so you mean down to the white sapwood right?

Are they ok with sealed ends and the bark on for a while? This stuff just showed up and there's a good amount of it and I'm neck deep in finishing summer projects.

[fujimo]

never use shellac personally- wood glue is good, or melted wax also very good- my favourite!
de barking is quite a job, slow and careful, knives, scrapers small screwdrivers whatever it takes. yup down to the white sapwood.

[Bowjunkie]

You can leave the bark on them for quite some time if you like. It is a good moisture barrier of its own. 3/4 of the yew staves I've aquired still had the bark on and some of them were years old.

You should seal the ends and cut the logs into staves. IMO, they should be cut as soon as poosible so the moisture can begin to leave the wood evenly and predictably. Once they're all cut, you can take your time and remove their bark at your leisure. Absolutely treat the wood just like Wayne said..... dont let it dry too fast.

The reason I prefer shellac over wood glue, wax, or paint is that it is a really good barrier, maintains its integrity as a barrier even when dry heating or steaming, and when it's time, comes off very easily without loading up tools or sandpaper.

[fujimo]

good point on the shellac- looks like i better find some  

[LittleBen]

Originally posted by fujimo:
never use shellac personally- wood glue is good, or melted wax also very good- my favourite!
de barking is quite a job, slow and careful, knives, scrapers small screwdrivers whatever it takes. yup down to the white sapwood.

I heard recently that some people leave the bark on and it will tend to pop off during floor tillering. Anyone ever tried this approach? Seems like it might be the ticket if you want a perfectly clean and unviolated back. Obviously this is only purposeful if the sapwood thickness is correct from the start.

[Bowjunkie]

I never tried that, but it sure sounds easier :^)

I usually end up thinning the sapwood though. The last one I did had ring thickness of 50-60 per inch. It took me a while, but I reduced the sapwood to just under 1/4" and brought it to one unviolated ring for the length of the bow. Its back is perfectly clean, creamy white, and gordeous.

[canopyboy]

So, I have a beautiful old yew stave that was gifted to me, but the sapwood is rather thick. Ring count is very high, I need to check. The thought of chasing a single ring on the back hurts. I thought with yew it wasn't that important? Or only if I back it with linen or rawhide?

[fujimo]

personally ,i never take the bark off, until i start the bow- but like i said- our humidity is very different here- we live in a coastal rain forest.

 you can violate the rings on the back, the sapwood is tough- its just nice to chase a ring somewhat- so that you can ensure that the sapwood/ backing is of a consistent thickness, as the backs can be rather convoluted.

[Bowjunkie]

Canopyboy, it's not as important as it is on most other woods. Yew sapwood can handle moderate ring violations on the back and still do it's job where tension is concerned without a backing. I chase rings in yew because I prefer the look, challenge, reward, and because I can. It's easier to just level them off, but chasing a thin ring isn't the hardest thing I've ever done and I'm in no rush. Some bow makers would rather have a flatter back violating rings in the process, I would rather follow just how it grew, get to know it better, and enjoy its character.

[canopyboy]

Good stuff. My plan was to try to at least generally chase the ring. But the outer surface is pretty convoluted and those rings are tiny so I wanted to know how critical it is. I liked the idea of not backing it if I could get away with it.

I've been putting off working this stave since I got it almost a year ago because I figure my chances of getting another like it seem slim and I've never worked with yew before. I don't want to screw it up. I think I'll get started on it this fall and post a build along so y'all can help me and I don't have to hijack someone else's thread...

Thanks.