Selfbow Q's

[blueslfb]

I am currently tillering an osage selfie and am having an issue I just can't seem to correct. The limbs are bending pretty good with no major issues so far however the string tracks off to one side, quite substantially. The tips are in line with each other but the string is not centered thru the handle.

I know it does not need to be perfectly centered thru the handle but it just doesn't look right. This is only my fourth selfbow but I have never had this issue before and I can't seem to correct it.

My question is should I just go with it or try more drastic measures to correct it.  Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

[Roy from Pa]

One side of the limbs is thicker than the other side. The string will drift towards the weaker thinner side. So you need to remove wood from the side that the string is moving away from. How do the limb tips line up with the bow unstrung? If they look straight, then it's as I said above most likely.


 

[mikkekeswick]

It could also be your layout and or the staves shape.
A good tip for future is to leave the handle area the same width as your limbs at the fades until you have the bow tillered to brace height. Then you can sight down the string and see where it lies then shape your handle to where the string wants to track. This is how I do all my selfbows with any character.
So to sort out your bow measure the sides first as Roy suggested then if that isn't your problem assess where the misalignment is. You can use heat on osage to bend it straight. You can also heat up the whole handle and bend it so that the string tracks centrally.

[John Scifres]

I don't like a bow that doesn't have the tips and handle in the same plane.  Pics would help a great deal.  More details on the design, length etc too.

[monterey]

Roy, I just can't see your nock filing recommendation.  Just seems that if you file the nock on the weak side then it would reduce leverage on that side and allow the strong side to overpower the weak side.   :confused:

[bigbob2]

Monterey think of it another way. if you deepen the groove on the weak side you are moving the string further toward center on that side , which allows the tip to move closer to center.

[Roy from Pa]

Bob, Monterey is from Colorado ya know..    

[mikkekeswick]

Recurve limbs will always twist towards the weaker side...so you need to remove material from the stronger side (sand mid limb) and move the string closer to its 'dynamic' center.

[Eric Krewson]

I sight down the limbs, if they are pretty straight I heat bend the handle to get the string where I want it.

[George Tsoukalas]

Was the stave like that or did you cause blueslfb?

I usually clamp a cord tip to tip to see if the string will lay across the handle.

How far off is it from center?

Sounds like you may have uneven wood removal. Remove wood from the strong side as per Roy's diagram.

I always leave knocks a good inch wide and handle full width too as mikkeskwick does so I can track the string better.

Jawge

[Bowjunkie]

Imho, I wouldn't remove wood from 'the strong side' unless I felt SURE that it was indeed the problem. If thickness side to side is dead nuts accurate and the string grooves/nocks on the tips are properly crafted, it may be a simple alignment issue, so check that before you remove any wood. It takes seconds.

Similar to George, I use a single strand of bow string, weighted with heavy lead sinkers, and just drape it over the center of the tips, unstrung, then take note of how it bisects the handle. If all things are constructed well as noted above, I look to natural alignment issues like twist due to propellor, misalignment while unstrung due to warpage or movement after layout, etc. and then it's best to use heat to align things rather than removing wood from 'the strong side'.

[Mad Max]

If the string is lined up UNbraced and not lined up braced.
do what these knot heads are saying    


My self bows, if the string is not lined up UNbraced I heat bend the Handle

   

[Roy from Pa]

If he were to come back and reply to our questions, we could further assist him.

[Mad Max]

yep

[blueslfb]

Sorry fellas for the delayed response!!

My wood removal is even and I don't have an issue there. Looks like I will need to do some heat bending in the handle area. Sounds like that will be my best option.

Thanks for the advice!!

[Pat B]

How about a few pics, braced, unbraced.

[Roy from Pa]

Ok cool, sounds like heat at the handle is the fix. Did you string it end to end with the bow unstrung and notice the problem? Pictures are always welcome.

[Mad Max]

This will help
You can use a heat gun just heat slowly on the belly side until it's hot all the way threw
slow wins the race
Start at 20:35
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XyJ14yeEnI&list=PLppaQNRtgb4u14fpFHoVl1ZKtBVZF3nJs&index=2

[blueslfb]

Thanks for all the responses and advice. Unfortunately I am stuck working all weekend and will not have time for bow building.

To answer a couple of questions...everything looks like it lines up when the bow is not braced. I know I am not experienced but I am always very careful to remove wood evenly so as not to have a weak and strong side. I did not lay this bow out. I took over this stave after a friend decided he did not want to tackle the project. It was floor tillered when I got it and the handle roughed in.

As time permits I will keep working at it and hopefully post some pics when I finish it up. Again thanks for all the help!!