Reinforced Riser for carbon socket takedown

[gograntgo10]

I am thinking about making a takedown bow using the locket socket style carbon sleeve method. How necessary is it to have a fiberglass reinforcement in the riser? I know Big Jim and other bowyers I trust insist that it is 100% necessary, but still other say it isn't necessary. Any opinions? has anyone done one of these with or without a reinforced riser? I am only planning on a 40 pound bow, so I imagine it won't be under too much stress. Any opinions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Grant

[Crittergetter]

Check out pg 25 of the bow swap. It is absolutely necessary

[Wagstaff]

Listen to the guys that have been there..!

It's a risk to build the socket type TD without a pretty good backbone..  It's not difficult to create a reinforced I-beam..  If you try, you can even Conceal the structural beam with some creative cutting and re-assembly.

Look into G-10 from Dale Stahl, Masecraft, or Alpha Knife Supply.  You can even get creative,  and select a color that blends or contrasts, adding some decorative style.

[LittleBen]

Originally posted by crittergetter:
Check out pg 25 of the bow swap. It is absolutely necessary

And in case you think you're smarter than the rest, Canopyboy is actually an engineer and a sharp one at that. There no secret solution .... Use an I-beam of g-10 or similar or risk explosion!

[die_dunkelheit]

Use a router and cut a channel down the center of the length of your handle laminations stopping just short of the end so it will remain hidden under the handle material.

If your handle area is going to be three pieces laminated together back to belly place your reinforcement on the inside faces of the outer pieces so they are separated by the middle piece. The stiffness here comes from the space of that separation. Use a caliper to measure the plunge depth of your bit off the router base plate. Make it depth slightly greater than the thickness of your reinforcement material to allow for some glue, just a few thousandths. Glue your reinforcement in leaving it flush with the surface of the material. When you glue that to the middle lamination of the handle the flushed out reinforcement will bond right to it.

Or if you are using transversely oriented middle lams you can do the same deal with the router but in the middle lams so that the reinforcement is oriented in the transverse plane.

Hey! This is my first post... Hi guys, I used to build bows for fun but had to quit do to life and am at a point where I can get back to it. You should start seeing some of my work come up in the bowyer's bench shortly. right now I have a piece of walnut and a piece of birch waiting for their bamboo backing to come in the mail, after that I'm going to do a few all Boo recurves and static recurves

[canopyboy]

Originally posted by LittleBen:
 Canopyboy is actually an engineer and a sharp one at that.

Gee, thanks Ben. But my wife has been arguing for years that I'm rather dull.

[Crooked Stic]

Composite is best for reinforcement. G10 or fiberglass. If you want all wood then Ipe would be a good choice. Keep the ibeam off center to the sight window side.

[BigJim]

Hey, give it a try without.  If it breaks, build another but with reinforcement.

It's only 40lbs, probably won't hurt much if she goes.I Had a 62 lb bow bolt explode on me at full draw (built by another )....everything grew back in a few weeks, on me that is.
BigJim