Limb tip wedges

[algstick]

Building a fiberglass faced and backed ASL and would like advice for adding fiberglass tip wedges. my form is 72" and plan to build a 66" bow. i plan to add tip wedges of the proper length to end up at the correct location on the bow when i cut it to length. i have stops on the ends of my form.
are there better ways of doing this?

[Wolftrail]

Why not use colored phenolic...?

[algstick]

My question is more towards how to laminate them into the stack, not so much about material. Just seeking advice as to the simplest way to accomplish this.

[kennym]

Before I started building p lams and tip wedges into my lams, I made the lams a little long and the tip wedge long too, then used good tape to tape the ends of lam and tip wedge like a hinge.

Unfold it to glue and then fold over to put in stack. Held great. Just make sure you figure the lam and wedge length to keep the wedge where you want it and the tape hinge out of the bow limb!!    :D

[Wagstaff]

Add a pin and/ or block to the form as a stop, to keep the tip wedge or other layers from sliding out the ends.

Use celophane wrap on everything to keep the lams aligned and tight to the curves of the form.  That one thing has done more to give us a reliable, consistent, worry free glue up.  Limb wedge, tip wedge, P-Lams, even slippery overlays are held tight in place on the form.  

Wrap the form prior to lay up.  Then wrap the stack directly to the protected form.  Easy Cleanup too.  The glue squeezes out between the layers of celephane wrap.


 

[Pago]

You probably already know this but make sure you need tip wedges before you use them.

Sincerely,

Guinea Pig.

[T Folts]

I agree with Pago. If you don't need a tip wedge to keep the proper string angle at full draw then you are just adding additional weight to the tip.
T.

[Stagmitis]

Hello Algstick,

Tape,celophane wrap,pins,making the tip wedges longer...All good advice and all will work.

I have gotten away from air hoses and use clamps for various reasons and for me Tape and celophane keeps everything in place without shifting. I cut my wedges longer than the end of the form and mark the spot they need to be relative to length of the bow.

 I incorporate tip wedges just under the back lamination on all my ASL`s since I do not use overlays. Sexy look but really there for functionality.

Just make sure you account for the thickness directly under your tip.

For a 66" bow and 3" tip wedge you will need a 9" overall length if flush to your form or longer if you extend it past.  

.50 glass is a common thickness and wedge material. IMO nothing works better than FG for this application. If you want to keep the glass thickness under the tip make sure to only taper the first couple inches( or three) and leave the rest towards the end of the form parallel.  

Hope this helps

[Roy from Pa]

Wagstaff, I like your work bench...  


 

[Overspined]

What's "FG"?  Fiberglass? I quit using glass of any sort for wedges.  I use phenolic, it's real strong and I've had an issue with glass and core tough.  I watched the string blow through a limb on a dry fire, the string actually sliced down through the limb on either side of the nock.  Seems only things that can withstand a dry fire well would be horn, phenolic, and the like.