KennyM D/R bow

[kennym]

Sorry I missed your ? Have had hunters on my lease, so a bit busy!

62" will take you past 30" draw.

How is your weight before reducing to 1/2"

I usually go 1.25" up from center for shelf and 1/8" to 0  pos tiller. Not sure how your setup will work.

Try to find bowjunkie's tillering thread, he has some very detailed info in there.

I never have much probs on tiller. But making 1/8 to 0 positive, I mark every 6" on tape and compare distance to string. Also check width there with a dial caliper, you will find they correspond.

The narrow fades and wide tips may cause a bit of shock too.

[Djoseph]

Glad your back Kenny...
I ended up using my .04 glass I checked the thickness the black one it was .035" and the white one was .04" so I glued the .035" on the back and the other on the belly...
The strange thing is that the 'white' glass turned out to be clear glass so now I can see the belly lam! the
I made it 66" ntn and its now 46# at 28" I wonder if I cut it to 64" what will the Drawweight be?

I haven't narrowed the tips yet but will do it in a day or two
I think I'll lower the shelf to your specs and tiller for 1/8" positive tiller... Kenny do you shoot split finger?

So maybe on my next bow I can make it 62" cause my draw Length is about 26" only..

Now I think I'll try and find bowjunkie's thread.....

Thanks Kenny for all your help and advice and most of all for your excellent bow design...

I will post pics as soon as I can get this photo bucket thing going!!
Regards
Dan

[kennym]

It should gain about 6# for 2" less length on limbs.

Narrowing tips may take off a couple #.

Yep , split finger, but anchor kind of like Paul Schafer up higher on cheekbone. Get the view of 3 under with the quiet of split finger. Not saying anybody else should do it but I'm shooting better than I have in a long time...

[Djoseph]

Hello Kenny! I've been busy... but now I reduced the width to 1/2" at nocks and it's around 45#@28"... earlier it was 46.something# The limbs are feeling like there is more tension at brace and the excess reflex is a bit Tamer now though there is still some reflex at brace...
I can reduce the last 8" to about 7/16" and it will probably straighten out the limb at brace I think...but wonder if that will weaken the tips or cause twist?????
I also recut the shelf lower and feel it's better balanced now when drawn...
 haven't shot it yet but will do so once the grip is shaped....
I shoot split finger too but my anchor is at the corner of my mouth I guess that's the common way...I don't know who Paul schafer is but will try to read up about him on the net.....
Best Regards, Dan.

[Djoseph]

Finally got photo bucket working!!!!

     
       

This is with the wide tips strung


     

This is the wide tips drawn profile.....I will upload the new strung and drawn profile with the reduced tip width

Dan

[kennym]

I like slight reflex showing at brace, but not string touching limb except at nock.

It probably won't twist if it isn't now as long as equal amounts come off each side.

Here is a bit on Paul. Not the taught way to shoot but we are all different and it seems to fit me better...

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=54

[Djoseph]

I decided to leave well enough alone...but i need to find a suitable finish for my bow and was searching for polyurethane wood finish and came upon this product....

Asian Paints PU (Polyurethane) is an acrylic based clear coating, which offers excellent weather resistance, light-fastness and UV protection to your exterior furniture.

Please tell me from the description if it will be suitable or not? What do you think?

Thanks, Dan

[monterey]

It seems suitable based on the description.  Maybe try a test piece of wood and subject it to some weather variations.  It slows the build process but advances the learning curve.

I learned that the hard way.  

[Djoseph]

Lol, don't we all....to a greater or lessor extant...but Thanks to tg members its definately been lessor for me!!

[kennym]

Your brace height looks a bit low there, mine like 6.5 to 7 inches from low part of grip. I make belly side of grip  1.75" from back (front      ) overlay. More brace height might change how your limb looks to you too.

I'd try the finish like Mike said, you will have a can of it anyway if you use it. If it don't hold up, at least you don't have to strip the bow.    :D

[Djoseph]

Kenny I did increase the brace height till the bow shot more silent an its at 7" now just like you said  ....
I rough shaped the handle and it shoots nicely now...i will sand it smooth today and the post pics before I start to do the finishing....
Hope that finish sticks!! And yeah if not atleast I will be able to peal it off

[mikkekeswick]

Good job so far  
Don't sand finer than 400 grit or else no varnish will stick properly!

[Djoseph]

Thanks Mike..... I'll remember your advice about the sand paper.....but as for trying it on a test piece I don't think I have the patience!!! So I'll take a chance and use this pu coating and find out in time if it's ok or not!!
Dan

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Sanding sealer sanding sealer sanding sealer.... I do 2 coats on the riser and tips of my bow. Sand lightly with 320 grit between coats. Really clean it off before I shoot my clear and have had no problem with clear sticking and it sets like a rock.

[Djoseph]

bowhntineverythingnh03743 I put on a coat today....forgot to take pics before doing it!
Anyway I didn't use any sealer!! What is it? Is the sealer a different thing? Actually I don't know anything about wood finishing!
Just starting to learn about these things...
 on my boo backed bows I just used varnish and after that rubbed wax on them....
Dan

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Sanding sealer lid used to fill grain and prep the wood to take on finish. I can't tell ya why it works but when I use oily exotic wood like cocobolo I need a few coats of sanding sealer otherwise the finish will never harden. I just use it on all my risers now and it hasn't been an issue.

[Djoseph]

Double post

[Djoseph]

I gave the bow a light sanding and put on a second coat it dries fine for me....I am using a fine brush and the coating shows streaks and drip marks

[mikkekeswick]

Now you have a coat on you need a sanding block and some fine wet and dry paper. You need to flatten the high spots. Apply another coat...flatten again....repeat until happy or bored....

[kennym]

What Mike said, and yes a sprayer will do a smoother job an most finishes. Thinning finish will also help(which you may have to do to spray anyway).

How's it shoot?