D/R Bow build

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I always cut my material 2 inches longer. That way if something slips you still have enough to fix. I have had it all happen to me before and I've learned that not cutting it exactly at the finished length is important.

[Trenton G.]

Hey guys, sorry for all the dumb questions, but I've got another one. Should I cut my pressure strip in half so that it curves up the riser and stops, or should I leave it one piece and have it run all the way across?

[Mad Max]

yes cut it

[Robertfishes]

I cut mine.

[Robertfishes]

   Make sure you do a dry run, pic is of a dry run..thats why there is no plastic protecting the form and air hose.... I like to shine a bright light on my form and really look closely for any gaps where the fades end and under the riser. I keep 2 extra ready to glue up risers handy in my shop..just in case I break or damage the fragile fades during glue up..one is Brown Actionwood the other is curly maple with red and black glass..they might not match perfect but I dont think I can regrind the fades quick enough to fix original riser..

[Trenton G.]

I did my dry run today and everything looked good. No gaps or anything. I left the pressure stop in on pier since I hadn't had any replies yet when I did it. It didn't seem to cause any issues with anything. I'm planning on glueing everything up on Thursday.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Trenton,
 Some suggestions for your first glue up. Make sure your form has some sort of stops along each edge like Robertfishes picture. I even go so much as to glue some along the ends so that nothing can slide down your fades and cause any other issues there. Wax down your form, I use turtle wax, lay down a layer of plastic wrap before putting the glued up bow onto the form. Lay another peice over the top of the bow before putting the top form on. I use the zip tie method to keep everything together and then cut them after adding half the air pressure into the hose. I drilled the holes for the zip ties at the mid point on the fades, at mid limb, and then close to the tips. I also tape it down as well. I have had many lams slide on me during my first couple glue ups that I take all the precautions I can now.
Just a few friendly tips so that your first one comes out great and you have no unforseen issues.

Best of luck and post pictures!

Justin

[Mad Max]

show us a picture of your form.
wrap you pressure strip too.

[Trenton G.]

Here's a picture of my form. I've got the two clamps, is that enough for the side to side motion?
     
Here is the dry run. The laminations slid apart a bit on the bottom, but I will glue the ends together before I glue up the whole bow. There were no gaps that I could find. I held a flashlight on the other side and couldn't see any light coming through.
     
Thanks for the tips bowhntineverything. I've done one laminated bow before, so I'm not totally new to this, but it's the first time that I've made my own form. I'm glad you mentioned the wax, I completely forgot about that step.

[mikkekeswick]

I normally splice the lams that go on the back of the riser that way nothing can slip apart. I use lots of packing tape to hold everything in place and have (touch wood!) never had anything move.

[Robertfishes]

I would add 3/8" or 1/2" plywood spacers between the form and metal straps. I prefer to have 4 metal straps on my forms. On the form pic I posted you can see I used "Mending Plates" and drilled the holes out to 3/8". I like to use 0.7 mil thick painters plastic on top of form, arround pressure hose and arround pressure strip. I buy the plastic for $5 for 5 rolls so it's pretty cheap..and one roll will do 5 bows. The form pic I posted has side washers on it to hold lams from slipping side ways..I started using wood blocks faced with frog tape for side stops 3 or 4 years ago.

[Crooked Stic]

You need more straps and spacer blocks behind them on your form. The blocks keep the hose from being interfered when inflated. Like this one
   

[Robertfishes]

I used to wax the pressure strip, form sides and form top..I now put frog tape down on the fiberglass form top, then a piece of plastic, I cut the plastic to width with Fiskars shop scissors before unfolding it..nothing wrong with wax it's just that I starting getting paranoid about getting wax on my laminations during the glue up..

[Trenton G.]

Thanks guys. I will make some blocks today and put them on the form between the metal straps. Unfortunately, I only have two of the straps, but I'll see if I can dig up a few more.

I guess I forgot to add that I'm using zebrawood veneers under clear glass, with hard maple tapers. Also, the packing strips that they sent with my lams turned out to be curly maple. Not sure if that was an accident or not, but I'm definitely not going to let those got to waste!

[Robertfishes]

I like zebrawood veneers. Places like home depot and lowes will have the mending plates, get the 12" long ones x 1 1/8" wide and at least 1/8" thick

[Trenton G.]

I added two more straps and glued the bow up this evening. I hate this part. im always worried that something is going to slip out of place. I just hope that it turns out lol

[kennym]

Good luck buddy!!

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Good luck! Hope all turns out well!

[Trenton G.]

The bow came out well from what I can tell. Now I just need to remove the huge globs of dried epoxy. Right now I'm using a dead blow hammer and chisel to remove most of the bigger pieces, then taking it to the belt sander. Is there a better way to remove all of the junk?
The last bow that I built, I was told to put glue on all gluing surfaces, even if the two surfaces touch. Is that right? I've gotten a ton of excess glue squeezing out on my bows, and when I look at pics on here, it looks like you guys don't have half as much squeeze out as I do.

[Wagstaff]

Dont use that hammer and chisel!..  You can do some damage..  Just grind it off...  Take it as slow as necessary, and keep your limb edges parallel to the riser block.  Then find your center line.