Using a nut instead of an insert (TD bow)

[arachnid]

Hi guys.
Just a little question- Is it possible to use a hex nut or a tee nut instead of a threaded insert in a 3pc TD? Meaning, to glue in the nut inside the riser (on the belly side) and attach the limb with a bolt?
Am I missing something here? Any design flaw?

[Pat B]

Dor, I think I would bolt through the the riser and limb with washers for the bolt and nut or counter sink the bolt into the riser and use the nut and a washer on the limb.

[Crooked Stic]

It would be hit and miss getting a nut to set straight in the wood and not enough glue surface for good hold and would pull out. A heavy duty tee nut installed thru the belly side of the riser would work well.

[arachnid]

Originally posted by Pat B:
 counter sink the bolt into the riser and use the nut and a washer on the limb.

That`s what I`ve done but I got a pair of nice looking bolts and I`d like to replace the attachment system I currently have (and I don`t have the proper inserts). I know bubby from PA made a TD using tee nuts a few years ago. I just want to be sure I don`t miss anything.

[Pat B]

Pearl Drums on PA made a cool take down recurve but I don't remember what he used for fasteners.

[Wolftrail]

I have used tee nuts on both my TD bows. Just a little fiddling to get it dead on.  Once you have the holes drilled simply screw in the bolts to lines things up. When you are satisfied with the alignment you can epoxy the T-nuts into place. Its that easy.

Remember to use hard wood where the T-nuts will be counter sunk.  I always loosen of the bolts after every use that way it reduces pressure on the T-nuts. And I have used regular hex bolts, simply grind the heads round and cut a slot in the head with a dremel.
No problems thus far.    

[arachnid]

Originally posted by Wolftrail:
I have used tee nuts on both my TD bows. Just a little fiddling to get it dead on.  Once you have the holes drilled simply screw in the bolts to lines things up. When you are satisfied with the alignment you can epoxy the T-nuts into place. Its that easy.

Remember to use hard wood where the T-nuts will be counter sunk.  I always loosen of the bolts after every use that way it reduces pressure on the T-nuts. And I have used regular hex bolts, simply grind the heads round and cut a slot in the head with a dremel.
No problems thus far.      

Did you use 1 nut or 2? I have 1 bolt and pin. Will it hold?

And on that matter, what am I missing here? Why shouldn't it hold? Isn't the tee nut string enough?

[Wolftrail]

I used a 5/16" bolt and only one with a pin.  2 bolts are to much hassle. On another note I rarely take it apart because I hang my bows on a rack, and put it in the car as one piece.

I like the idea of separate limbs in case one breaks or you want to change length and weight. (Multiple limbs.) Versatility is the main objective here.

[jess stuart]

Back in the day Binghams didn't offer the threaded insert.  What they did sell was a 3/8" allen bolt about 2.5" long, you drilled a 5/16" hole in  the riser and tapped it 3/8".  A threaded knob and washer was used to secure the limb. I have bows using that method that were built in the late 80's that are still going strong.  Never had one pull out.

[monterey]

Jess, are you saying that the only threads holding the bolt were in the wood?

[Wolftrail]

I thought the modern day method was to tap the hole in the riser and thread in the insert.    :confused:

[jess stuart]

monterey, that is correct.  It was just a 3/8" N.C. threaded bolt no insert at all.  I still have  two bows with that system.  One was built in the late 1980's the other in 1990.  Still holding up after all these years.  I probably built 20 plus bows using that system without ever having any problem with the bolt pulling out or any other issues.

[Crooked Stic]

I never even thought of that Jess I bet if you epoxy the stud in it would be very good.