Almost ten years has gone... Buildalong TRIAL

[matiass]

Hi everybody! I abandoned the project of making my bow 9 years ago, because some jobs problems and years of home repairing and improvement, now, I'm again in the road.
I uploaded this plans to the forum in 2008, then I bought my first bow a Samick Recurve, and then a Shakespeare GOLDEN EAGLE ProLine I found on ****, just for start a collection. Now I'm starting again with the project. After some improvements this is my plan, any critique or comments will be welcome, I hope I can keep the steps this time.
Thank you and feel free to comment please!!
(and excuse my english, I'm from argentina and my language is spanish)      :rolleyes:      

 
 
Yeeeess!!! I could post a picture....hahaha

[goobersan]

Looks like a great starting point !
Take your time. You will get many years of use from a well built form.
Are you planing on rubber straps or airhose ?

my spanish is much worse than your english    

[matiass]

jajaja... Thanks goobersan, I will try with rubber strips, from bicycle wheels, and some C clamps for the riser fades. Thanks for comment!!

[matiass]

I saw that the previous pic is not good enough to read it. I uploaded it again, and add some info.
 

This is my form, I'm waiting for the template bit, because I ruin the form in the first attempt with the template guide.

 

 

And here, my riser woods, I don't know the names of the woods there, but here the reddish we call it Cancharana, and the other is Guayubira. I need to finish the MDF templates too.

 

I hope you can leave some message, and stop me if I'm going to the wrong path.
Thank you!

[Bvas]

You may find it difficult to get good clamp pressure on the fade areas.  The clamps and laminations will probably want to slide down especially once glue is added to the mix. You can use stops on the end of the form at the tips to keep the lams from sliding, but I think you will still have problems getting even clamp pressure.

I would suggest leaving the top of the riser flat and using clamps there, then use the bands for the fade areas and limbs.

What ever you choose, make sure you do a dry run or two.  And keep in mind things are A LOT harder to hold in place once glue is added.

[matiass]

Tkanks Bvas, I will use stop blocks on the end of the limbs, and 2 pins in the riser as I saw in a build along. In my form I have 5 holes in the riser and fade areas to use clamps there, and rubber bands on the limbs.
With your experience, do you think I can get a 40#  bow with this configuration? 64" NTN 0.42" stack in the fades and 0.28 in the nock? I plan to use .04 glass on back and belly.

[kennym]

Sounds a little heavy to me, my 64" D/R takes .345" stack including 2 -.040" glass  for 40# at butt of lams with .003" per inch total taper and 18" riser.

[Bvas]

Not sure what your weight would be, but that seems like an awful lot of taper.  

Correct me if I'm wrong. But that's about .010 per inch taper. I believe most bowlers use .002-.003 per inch.

What type of bow are you making??  The curves on the limbs seem pretty extreme...

[matiass]

Thanks Kenny I'll go with .345. It's the same effect if I reduce the parallel lams and taper lams proportionally? Or must I reduce only the parallel? or taper?
Bvas It's a taper of 0.004 as I saw in a longbow Buildalong of Dave Watson, It's core Lam is a tapered lam os 5mm > 1mm.
Shredd I copied a Bow profile from Internet, the only difference is that bow was 58" and I stretched it to 64", Do you think this can give me troubles?
Thanks all!!!

[Bvas]

Originally posted by matiass:
64" NTN 0.42" stack in the fades and 0.28 in the nock?

I think we just had a little communication error  
The .42" will be stack at center of grip/riser not at the fades.  

[matiass]

You are right Bvas, thanks for that!!

[kennym]

Now , just because my bow takes that amount of stack doesn't mean the next design will. The more reflex, less stack is needed. Mine is about neutral(nocks and back on same plane) I added an inch of reflex and it added 5# with same stack. Every design is a little different, just sayin......

[matiass]

Thanks Kenny, Your opinion is a good start for a newbie like me, all your advices helps. This is the first I do, I'll take your .345 stack to start,  I need to learn too much things, Here we don't have Smooth On, neither bo tuff or bear paw glass and so on, everything here is a great effort. May be my epoxy does not work or my glass does not work, the great part for me is keep doing and learning. Thanks again!!!

[matiass]

And now it´s time to do the home made lam sander with the help of Sam Harper and many people I saw on the web

 
 

I was testing it, and I would like to ask you ¨How Much¨ is for you, the "acceptable tolerance"  in thickness in the wide of the lam. I have 2mm an edge and 2.1mm in the other. I used some washers to level the sander. I need to worry about that 0.1mm error?