giveaway bow build let's get this party started(finished pics page 9)

[Bodork]

Then I laid the pieces out and looked at them under the plexiglass.
 
 I am using two .030 maple stripes with .040 mesquite on each side of the wide stripe. The wide stripe looks too wide in relation to the riser to me so I narrowed it a bit
 
 I think this will look better.

[kennym]

Looking good Mike! Can't wait !

[Mad Max]

Yes
Looking good

[jess stuart]

Gonna be a looker.

[Bodork]

I was going to use a piece of extra mordillo that Kenny sent along for the stripe between the maple but decided mesquite would look better so I had to make a few veneers. This is how I make them.
 
 I use a 1-1/2" drum sander on my drill press. I clamp a square piece of phenolic (wood would work) to the drill press table. The clamp in the back of the picture stays in place. The clamp nearest you will be loosened so the phenoilc can be moved closer to the drum. I start where the stock will barely be sanded, make a few passes and then loosen the front clamp and move the phenolic very slightly closer to the drum. Make  a few more passes turning the stock over so both sides get sanded.
 
 I push the stock until I can grab it and pull it through. Try to maintain slow steady speed and don't try to take off too much material at a time. I have heard this is not very good on drill press bearings because of the sideways pressure so I don't try to 'hog' a piece through.

[Bodork]

Got all the piece ready to glue up.
 
I wanted to show this picture with the plexiglass form on the wood.
 
 Look closely at each end of the wide stripe and you'll notice that it doesn't quite reach the ramp. Although I wish the stripe were longer it was the longest piece I could get from the block. I'm not too worried about it because I will be able to curve my ramps just a bit more so the stripe will be long enough. The form is slightly bigger than need be anyway. Notice that all the pieces have the center line drawn on so I'm sure I get all the pieces lined up when I glue them together.

[Trux Turning]

[Bodork]

So Here is the riser all clamped up with epoxy. Remember what I said about marking a center line to make sure things stay lined up?
 
It's really not all that important!

[Bodork]

Took the clamps off and drew the ramps on from the template.
 
 Let's see if I can get that middle stripe that slid of center back where it belongs.
 
 That was easy! Here's how it looks with the ramps rough cut and the sides cleaned up a little.

[Mad Max]

Awesome
   

[bow loving man]

Just wait.....it's about to get good!!!!

[Bodork]

Next I sand an angle on one end of each veneer and lams and super glue them together.
 
 I clamp a block of wood on top of them while the glue cures. Wax paper keeps the block from sticking to the lams.
 
 I butt them alongside a piece of glass to keep them straight.
 

[Bodork]

Then the glue is sanded off with a block and 60 grit sandpaper. Be very careful with the thin veneers so they don't grab the sandpaper and break.
 
 The first thing you should do when handling glass is run your finger down the side to remove any splinters. NOT REALLY! Just making sure you were paying attention. First thing to do is tape the shiny side so you don't scratch the glass.
 

[Trenton G.]

Cool build along. I'm excited to see the end result.

[Bodork]

Now I set the glass and lams on my form in th order I am going to glue them up.
 
 Then I clamp the riser in place on the lams.
 
 I am looking for gaps along the riser where it lays on the lams. I don't have a jig so I have to do this by hand. Notice the two black marks on each end of the riser. These are spots where the riser is tight against the lams. Kind of hard to tell in the pic because there is a black sharpie mark along the riser. These high spots need to be sanded so the rest of the riser lays tight. Gotta do this real slow.

[Bodork]

Sanded a little bit and it already lays down better. See how tight it lays beyond my original black marks. The arcs I drew indicate low spots that aren't tight yet. I don't want to sand between these lines.
 
 This close up makes it easier to see what I'm talking about. It looks good to the left of the arc I drew but the center of the riser has a gap. To fix that I sand the part that is already touching tight. This allows the middle to lay down more.
 

[Bodork]

This is the right side with my marks.
 
Here it is after a little work.
 
 Still some teeny lows where the circles are. A jig would save a lot of time here!

[Bvas]

Lmao!! That's almost the exact same technique I used for getting my template adjusted.
Lots of hash marks with and scribbles all over.
Looking good!!

[Bodork]

Same picture as above but I wanted to point out a few things. Notice the black sharpie marks on the sides of the lams. These marks are the center of my lams. Keep the lams in the same place during the entire process because moving them if they are tapered can effect how the riser lays down. Also notice my angled splices in my lams are not directly above one another. I like to stagger the splices. Also, I usually know which end of the riser I would like to be the top, especially if I have fancy stripes, so I shift one splice toward the bottom tip. Putting the splice off center towards the bottom tip makes the bottom limb slightly stronger.
 

[Trux Turning]

Good stuff!