Can`t get the riser block to fit....(finished pics pg. 5)

[arachnid]

Hi guys...
I`ll get right to it- I can`t get the riser blocl to fit perfectly on the form. I got it pretty close to perfect- is that enough?

But. my main problem is the fades. I don`t have a pattern/tamplate sander, I use my belt sander jig for it and I just cant get it right.

Here`s where I`m at... I got the back lam on the form, on top of it there`s a power-lam ant the riser sits on it.
       

Here`s a close up of the fade... not too bad?
   

Well, take a look at the other side of the same fade... Agh...(sorry for the up-right picture)
     

Here`s my sanding station... if I can call it that way..            

So, what can I do?
Any tip and tricks will be welcome.

Thanks in advance
Dor

[Roy from Pa]

Looks as though there is too abrut of a change. Maybe add another thin lam to get a more gentle transition.

[Bvas]

I'm guessing your sander is not square with the table.
If you can.....keep flipping the riser over on the table. This should leave you with a slight ridge in the middle to sand out by hand.
I would also try to get a more gradual taper on the riser fades.

[Mad Max]

You have a high spot at that 2nd clamp (2nd and 3rd Pic.)
Carefully sand that down ( back and belly of RISER), by hand or rasp, go slow.
Stop with the power tool's
Good luck, you can do it.
   

[arachnid]

How do I get a more gradual taper? I already shortened the riser to less then 18"....

[Pago]

...

[arachnid]

Originally posted by Pago:
...

Well said...  

[Bvas]

The belly side of the riser will not be straight if you want a more gradual taper. Hopefully you can see what I'm talking about in these pics.
 
 

[Crooked Stic]

I think you need to get the fit with the riser before you put the lams in there then clamp it down and see where you are. thin those fades way back so they can give a bit also.

[Mad Max]

Stic,look again
he has a power lam in the stack 2nd pic.

[Crooked Stic]

Yeah I see the power lam. I also see the lams against the form and the gaps are between the riser and lams. So get the riser to fit before the lams. That has always worked for me.

[Mad Max]

yep

[Bvas]

Max, I know you've built waaaay more bows than me. But it is my thought that the power lam is used to assist/ease pressure off the riser fades, not take the place of them. If the power lam isn't long enough or thick enough, won't it create a hing spot right off the end of the riser?

[Gundog68]

Beware that the front roll in the sander ist not a real cylinder, it is like a barrel.

[arachnid]

Originally posted by Gundog68:
Beware that the front roll in the sander ist not a real cylinder, it is like a barrel.

Good point

[Mad Max]

yep

[arachnid]

Got some work done and got the right fade more gradual. I used only hand tools (rasp and sandpaper). Of course I need to work on it some more, get the left one done and flatten the belly side of the riser block, but I just want your opinion if I`m in the right direction.
     

close up  

And one more question- the riser block got shortend and now it`s 16"  long (not 18"). I also have a 20" long power-lam. Shouldn`t be a problem right?

[Crooked Stic]

I have heard that some guys stick down maybe 50 grit paper on the form where the riser block will go and scrub the block back and forth to get it close.

[Bvas]

I think your heading in the right direction. But as Stic has said, make sure you get the riser to fit nice and tight to the form. There's no sense in rushing to glue together parts that aren't ready.

[arachnid]

Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
I have heard that some guys stick down maybe 50 grit paper on the form where the riser block will go and scrub the block back and forth to get it close.

That's very clever...
Since I'm a teacher, I'll be going on  the summer break tomorrow. I'll have plenty on time to work on it. Hopefully I'll have a new bow to shoot.