Tips and tricks thread

[Bvas]

Originally posted by Mad Max:
Hey
I got one
Use tape to hold the plastic wrap on the form.

    :D  

X2  Just walking past the form can create enough air movement to screw up plastic wrap.

[Texas Trad]

Really been enjoying this thread, some very good tips. About the plastic wrap, I have been having very good luck using the .4 mil painters plastic.
It comes in a roll and has 4 folds, 2 of the folds are a little wider than the other 2, I measure off about 8" longer than my glass. I cut along the folds, using the wider pieces for 1pc recurves. I do my layups on the plastic, on a table, then wrap my layup (take gloves off before wrapping) I then use masking tape to secure wrap and fold the ends over to catch any squeeze out I then can lay bundle on form. Since the plastic is somewhat clear and I have marked the center on my riser laminations and glass, I can line everything up with the center of my form.

[Crooked Stic]

I been needing to do this for awhile. A profiling jig for my Hyper Stic one peice fade outs.
 
 

[stickmonkey]

I use Velcro strips on the forms to aid in holding down the lams and also zip ties when laying up a limb with 7 lams in the core.

[stickmonkey]

Just remembered one more. I drill 2 1/32  holes at the butt end of my TD limb and put a toothpick in each hole then break off flush to aid in keeping everything in place.

[stickmonkey]

I think most know this but it does make a difference and may help a new bowyer but air up the hose very slowly. Say like 5-10 psi then let the glue squeeze out a bit then another 10 psi the repeat. This will aid in keeping the lams from moving as much.

I also pay attention to how I apply the glue in the back and belly so I do not get a bubble or dry spot under the glass. I will leave the center of the lams just a little thicker so whenpressure is applies the glue squeezes out and doesn’t trap any air.

[Bvas]

Thought I’d drag this thread back out.
Getting ready to glue up my 20 piece laminated riser today and have come up with several tips that might help others.

#1 is the handy little jig that is easily adapted to the form. In test runs this has worked very well to keep everything in place.

#2. I don’t have my lams yet to put under all the riser pieces for fit. This bow uses .003 taper(.002 back and .001 belly). So I made myself a .002 power lam afrwinches longer than the riser from a piece of boo kenny had used for a packing strip on a previous order. Thanks kenny  Then I just made a short lam to get to the same thickness as what my stack will be under the riser.

Now I don’t have to keep putting my actual lams under the riser to check fit and Risk damaging them.

#3 Is the simplest but best of all. For those of you that use plastic wrap to cover the form and can’t stand the way it blows around and wrinkles. Carefully take and put clear packing tape the length of your form. Then unroll you plastic wrap (I cut my rolls to half width)from one end to the other sticking it down as you go. Then just a few release cuts on the sides and it lays down perfect.

[Dannon]

This is something I came up with for gluing on riser overlays. Someone might have already done this before, I’m not sure. But it certainly helps the process go a little easier.

[Roy from Pa]

Dannon, that gives me an idea for tip overlays.

Darn things sometimes keep sliding off because of the 2 angles being glued together.

[Pat B]

Hope you didn't glue the riser to the form. 

[Dannon]

Lol, no PatB, that was just for the pic. I put a sheet of Saran Wrap over it before I glued it down.

[Bvas]

Nice Dannon.

If you cut the clamp notches deeper it would also work for glueing on belly side overlays.

[Flem]

Made this the other day when I needed to rout a tiny pocket for some inlay in tight quarters. Never been good free handing a Dremel.
While I was looking for ideas, I saw where somebody had put a little flap of clear tape on the shank of the bit the blow the dust away. Man did that work good! So simple.

[BigJim]

I never could get used to the plastic wrap idea... Early on I switched to stretch wrap roles. We wrap the entire form with it and then lay up the bow. Bow gets taped down with strapping tape then wrapped again with the stretch wrap.
Finish assembling the form, blow up the hose and cook.

We have gone through cases of the stretch wrap roles. It may not be as cheap, but it is fast and less aggravating to me.

Lots of hoses instead of clamps. Simpler once you get used to it.

And a pattern makers vise!! save up for one. About $300 +- it is worth every penny and then some.

BIgJim

[Bvas]

Good tip Jim. But some of us are still in the experimental phase. 

I’m still using the band method on my forms, so the shrink wrap would make it a little difficult to hook the bands on the pegs.

[BigJim]

Actually it will work if you have removable pegs. Put the wrap on and then push the pegs through.
BigJim

[bobbykelley]

Would anyone be willing to share some good tips for wedges? And a great big thanks to all for sharing these have answered some of my questions. 

[Bvas]

Would anyone be willing to share some good tips for wedges? And a great big thanks to all for sharing these have answered some of my questions. 

For takedown limbs or tip wedges?

[bobbykelley]

Sorry bvas I've been away for a while.  Takedown would be greatly appreciated.

[kennym]

Not to answer for Brad but here is a power lam sled which works like any other. I make the part that runs on conveyor a bit longer as it tends to mash down if not and change angle of wedge a bit . It should measure same at top of sled at left arrow as top of wedge at right arrow. If you are doing a wedge with a flat , mark length of flat and measure to top of wedge at that point when setting sliding adjuster piece.


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