Author Topic: Tips and tricks thread (Read 86659 times)

BigJim · « **Reply #80 on:** January 09, 2021, 03:53:45 PM »

We tape up 30-40 pieces at a time and it may be a week or 6 months before the tape comes off of some..
Bigjim

Crooked Stic · « **Reply #81 on:** January 09, 2021, 06:29:02 PM »

I have a Mac tools thick blade gasket scraper maybe .060 thick but good metal. works well for tape.

Shredd · « **Reply #82 on:** January 09, 2021, 07:05:19 PM »

Quote from: BigJim on January 09, 2021, 03:53:45 PM

We tape up 30-40 pieces at a time and it may be a week or 6 months before the tape comes off of some..
Bigjim

Oh chit... I can see that being an issue... That tape can really get stuck on there after a period of time...

JGR1269 · « **Reply #83 on:** January 19, 2021, 12:28:09 PM »

My Grizzly 12” Disc Sander for scarf joints. I drilled and tapped a 1/4” hole in the table and attach a piece of angle iron as a fence. A clamp on the opposite end and you can adjust the angle but I never need to. I can do a perfect joint in less than a minute.

Bowjunkie · « **Reply #84 on:** January 19, 2021, 12:46:27 PM »

I usually just buy whatever masking tape i can get cheapest. If it ever wants to stick too good, I just warm it with the heat gun for a few seconds, and then 'lead it' with the heat gun as ya peel.... comes right off and usually brings the glue residue with it. Works for tape, stickers and such on other things too.

Longcruise · « **Reply #85 on:** January 19, 2021, 01:16:56 PM »

Quote from: Bowjunkie on January 19, 2021, 12:46:27 PM

I usually just buy whatever masking tape i can get cheapest. If it ever wants to stick too good, I just warm it with the heat gun for a few seconds, and then 'lead it' with the heat gun as ya peel.... comes right off and usually brings the glue residue with it. Works for tape, stickers and such on other things too.

Seems like something to give a try.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #86 on:** January 19, 2021, 01:37:32 PM »

Yup little heat from the heat gun and it peels right off.

Mad Max · « **Reply #87 on:** January 19, 2021, 04:42:43 PM »

When I make a new form. I do this for all templates

I get my plywood riser template as close as possible on top of half of my stack, use masking tape in gap areas, and butter it up with smooth-on. Sometimes takes 2 times.

Under the blue tap could be shorter pieces.

Walt Francis · « **Reply #88 on:** January 20, 2021, 12:27:41 AM »

Quote from: Mad Max on January 19, 2021, 04:42:43 PM

When I make a new form. I do this for all templates
I get my plywood riser template as close as possible on top of half of my stack, use masking tape in gap areas, and butter it up with smooth-on. Sometimes takes 2 times.

Mark,

That is a great is a great idea. I think you solved my problem with my new riser template for me.
Under the blue tap could be shorter pieces.

kennym · « **Reply #89 on:** January 20, 2021, 07:26:52 AM »

Great tips coming in!!

Autumnarcher · « **Reply #90 on:** January 29, 2021, 10:10:29 PM »

When setting bandsaw fence for cutting out lam strips, I made up an assortment of wood blocks about 3" long on drum sander for different thickness spacer blocks. Depending on the thickness lam, I set a spacer between fence and blade thentighten fence making sure it doesnt shift and push against blade. I have from .050- .140 in .010 increments depending on what size lam I need. More accurate than using a tape or combo- square, and saves a lil wood by not cutting too thick before sanding. Also have one cut to 1.5" for ripping strips to width. Makes saw setup much easier

Buemaker · « **Reply #91 on:** January 30, 2021, 05:10:27 AM »

Good ideas

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #92 on:** January 30, 2021, 05:52:18 AM »

I got an assortment of 36" long x 1.5 wide tapered lams from Kenny.

I place a tapered lam between my fence and the chunk of wood I want to cut the lam from and cut one lam off as I slide it through the saw.

Then I flip the block of wood 180 and cut off the second lam.

The lams come out already tapered and not much drum sanding is needed.

Got the idea from Ole Kenny:)

kennym · « **Reply #93 on:** January 30, 2021, 12:06:12 PM »

Rody , don’t fergit the preacher stick , preachers never lie...

Use this to set thickness kinda like John does with the blocks .

It’s just a .005 taper marked every .010 “

Buemaker · « **Reply #94 on:** February 03, 2021, 04:16:36 AM »

Rubber band pressure
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=154553.msg2673803#msg2673803

Autumnarcher · « **Reply #95 on:** February 07, 2021, 10:38:12 AM »

Gluing up handle overlays- i save the piece cut off when cutting out back of riser. Then usecthose little curved wedges on the scrap piece to lay on top over overlay pieces to give you a flat surface for clamps. Works great.

harry 62 · « **Reply #96 on:** February 11, 2021, 01:29:58 PM »

I wrap the air hose with plastic wrap instead of covering top of the bow with it can do a few bows before wrapping again.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #97 on:** February 13, 2021, 07:19:32 AM »

Work bench bow limb support, compliments of Bue in Norway..

Flem · « **Reply #98 on:** February 24, 2021, 01:11:02 PM »

Here's a trick for getting hard, burnt deposits off of a still usable sanding belt. Most of the time it's wood related and a gummy stick takes care of it. But sometimes when you are grinding something manmade or resinous , in this case epoxy, the gummy stick won't do it. I tried to loosen it with alcohol and acetone, those don't work either.

Heat gun does! About 30sec on high and it started to lift a tiny bit and picked off fairly easy. Its not perfect. There are definite low spots from the picking. I can live with that, high spots not so much.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #99 on:** February 27, 2021, 07:54:48 AM »

This is from Bue.

http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=154553.msg2673803#msg2673803

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Author Topic: Tips and tricks thread (Read 86659 times)

Shredd

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