Hickory backed lemonwood ALB build along the start.

[Pat B]

Thanks Roy. A PA member had bought a 4.5# tub a while back and offered to send me a baggie full. I found it for $25 to $30 on a few sites but the shipping was $15 to $17 bucks. I don't need it that bad.
 Benton, looking forward to your review. I know I was impressed when I used it a few years ago. I learned about it many years ago when a PA member from Italy talked about it. Albi used it exclusively on his incredible backed and multi-lam bows he built.

[Roy from Pa]

Yupper Pat..

[soy]

looking good so far  

[Pat B]

I got back at it this past week. First I covered the backing strip with masking tape to protect it at glue up...
 

...then cut 3 thin pieces of wood of graduating lengths that will be the riser...
 


...then time to glue it all together...
 

...and the results...
 

 

I'll sand the edges smooth, mark out the riser and cut it out. Then I'll pre-tiller the lemonwood belly to prepare for glue-up.
to be continued...

[Pat B]

I did a little more work today. First I sanded the sides of the handle area flat so I could mark it all out...
 
 

...then I marked out the side view of the handle and fades and marked the beginning limb thickness(5/8"), done with the backing included...
 
 

Next will be rough shaping the side profile of the handle and reduce to the initial limb thickness.   ...to be continued...

[Wolftrail]

Are you cutting a shelf into that bow.  What is the measurement from end fade to end  fade.?  I'm thinking 12".

[John Malone]

4 inch handle and four inch fades I believe he said.

[Wolftrail]

Originally posted by BMorv:
It went up in price.  I bought the Weldwood plastic resin based on Pat's recommendation a couple months for $9 on amazon.  I just glued up a tri-lam with it 2 days ago.  I'll provide a review of it after I finish tillering it.  I'm impressed with it so far.

$9..    in Canada I paid $42 shipping included for a one pound tub.

[Pat B]

4" handle centered on the bow, 4" fades. The limbs are 1 1/2" out 12" then tapering to 3/4" tips(for now, will finish out at 3/8").
 No, I won't be cutting in a shelf. The bow will have a bulbous handle and I may add a small leather rest at the arrow pass.

[John Malone]

Silly question, will the 12 inch riser area be  stiff through the fades then 28 inches of working limb? I'm looking at the pic with the side view of the riser lay out. I know that's a rough out line but looks like it will be stiff.

[Pat B]

As I'm tillering I'll bring the working limb back to or into the fades. This will be a stiff handled bow, not a bendy. The ALBs are stiff handled.

[LeeNY]

Pat, It's looking good so far. I've always enjoyed your build a longs. I've learned a lot!

Thanks,
Lee

[Pat B]

Thanks Lee. Just passing on what others taught me.

[Roy from Pa]

Looking nice, Pat..

[Pat B]

I need to get back on it but my basement shop is too cold now, not PA cold but NC cold.    

[Pat B]

I did a little wood removal by sawing along the drawn lines on both sides of each limb at about a 45deg angle. This removed enough wood so I can see a little bend when I floor tiller...
 

 

 

I also cut the fade areas...
 

It's just too damned cold in my basement shop(34deg) to work down there so as soon as this cold snap breaks I'll use a rasp to pre-tiller the limbs so I get a smooth, even bend then I'll be ready for glue-up.

[ron w]

Man oh man.......that is shaping up nicely.  

[Roy from Pa]

Looking good, Pat. Was -3 here this morning.

[Pat B]

We were +3, Roy but my shop was 34. We have a January thaw coming this week. Tonight is the last below freezing for a week..with rain...which we need.

[Pat B]

The shop got up to 40 so I did a little more work today. I started by rasping the belly to the line I drew along the side. I'm crowning the belly now as I remove wood but will flatten it out later. Lemonwood is susceptible to fretting so I'll flatten the belly to allow the stresses to be evened out instead of concentrated down the crown. I clean up the tool marks with scraper after each wood removal and I round the belly corners to prevent splinters. I found that lemonwood splinters fester pretty bad.
   

...I marked an area that got cut a bit thin as I removed the corners with the bandsaw with "X"s so I stay away from it until the rest of the limb is at that thickness...
 

...after removing wood from both limbs and smoothing out the tool marks with a scraper I floor tillered both limbs. This area where the oval is is a stiff spot where I will scrape until it's the same as the rest...
 

Next I drew another line about 1/8" below the other line down both sides of both limbs to be the next area to remove wood too...
 

...when I do this I go from tip to tip, through the handle to insure both limbs are the same thickness on both sides...
 

That's all for today.