Bow build DONE

[Forwardhandle]

Ok here comes the newbe questions for you guys ,does it mater when building up a riser if I use kiln dried boards  and if the grain is strait does it matter if flat sawn or 1/4 also can I use comercial veneeres the thin stuff in the riser pattern , I have kiln dried bubinga,purple heart ,walnut, and air dried osage & maple,hickory any advice appreciated ! Being new over here I dont know if this is the right place to ask or start a different thread ?

Yeah Kenny...  I would put them above the hose...  It will add the pressure...

[kennym]

Ritchie, kiln dried is probably best, if not dry it will shrink a bit. And if you put any glass or phenolic in it , you will be able to feel the joint later, never had one fail but sure irritating to be able to feel the joint on it.

Where were you going to use the commercial veneer? As accents they would be fine but a little thin for my liking as most are .022", would'nt show up as well as a .060" line in the riser.

[Forwardhandle]

That's a good thing to know Kenny on the air dried wood never really thought of it ,I was just going to accent out  a peace of shop veneere with the commercial stuff I have a bunch collecting dust lying around but maybe I should make it simple on the first , does the phenolic add more strength then wood ? I found some ebony I have that I forgot about that I thought would look good caped out with a lighter veneere wood I was going to just use a solid riser at first then I seen all you guys fancy risers ! so figured I would spruce it up a bit.

[Crooked Stic]

Kenny is right about the phenolic and wood moving at different rates. Never had one fail either but it bugs me.Using phenolic with stabilized wood would be better. You can always ibeam with stronger wood or ibeam with the same wood. I found a veneer suplier that has thin stuff and thicker stuff that is dyed that can be used for veneers or accents.
  web page

[Forwardhandle]

Thanks for the site there Stick & info  I will put that one in my pocket, I got a new Lenox venerre blade for my band saw I want to try out  see how it works but need to pick up some glass or phenolic.

[monterey]

I ve gotten veneers from B&B and they are good quality.  The exotics I've gotten from them are .021 but if they are going to be a part of the stack, best get the veneers first, measure and then grind or order the rest of the stack.

[Forwardhandle]

That riser grip is looking awsome kenny ,!

[kennym]

Thanks Ritchie, may be able to work on it a bit this week!

[Roy from Pa]

Very nice, Kenny.

[Crooked Stic]

Looking good Kenny!

[Forwardhandle]

Kenny I decided Im just going to make the 64 in. Bow Im pretty much going to replicate your build but Im looking for 47-48 lb @ 29 1/4  in. draw  would you recomend the 45 lb  stack  Im getting to old to pull much more then that in the late season cold ?

[kennym]

That should be real close to coming in at the right weight for you.

[kennym]

Oh , sprayed it yesterday. Mad it pop!

[Roy from Pa]

Mad it pop huh? LOL

[Bow Bender]

It really looks nice. Have you been able to shoot it yet.
I've got some questions if you don't mind.
1  What band saw blade as far as width and TPI do you use when cutting the riser curves with your radius cutting jig.
2  Do you do any sanding to remove blade teeth marks after the cut or if there aren't any obvious bumps or dips is it good to glue up as is.
3  What blade would you recommend if cutting a tighter 6" radius.

 Thanks, Royce.

[Bvas]

Originally posted by kennym:
Oh , sprayed it yesterday. Mad it pop!

Didn’t happen without pictures.    

[Roy from Pa]

Zactly.....

[kennym]

Can’t find my camera in the sock drawer....

[Roy from Pa]

LOL ok